Ivan Dixon explores Terras Gauda and Pittacum
Native Northwest Delights: The Saviour of Spanish Wine?
When recently given a rare opportunity to indulge in four of my favourite S’s (Sun, Sea, Shellfish and Seriously good wine, just in case you are wondering...). It proved an offer I could not refuse. My accepted mission? To get underneath the skin of one of the country’s most exciting and acclaimed wines, Albarino and Bierzo. Equipped with pen, notepad, neurofen and a keen palate I set out with a group of brethren “winos” to the serene setting of Northwest Spain’s Galicia to find out what all the fuss was about. Here’s how I got on.
Generally speaking, think of Spanish wine and there are a couple of names that immediately spring to mind. Rioja; Spain’s ubiquitous, inextricable driving export force, Cava; the planet’s most produced (if not most prestigious) sparkling wine, and Sherry; a style (often unfairly) brandished with the archaic reputation of cheap, sweet, alcoholic plonk destined for the glasses of geriatric drinkers across the nation. Amalgamated with this “big three’s” export dominance comes occasional archaic stigmatisation and derogatory association. For those who can recollect the vinous horrors inflicted on sun- seeking Brits travelling abroad in the 70s and 80s -repulsively rugged reds and offensively oxidised whites - the domestic offering made even the roughest Sangria appear a positive godsend! Hyperbole aside, the reality is that Spain is not naturally a country renowned for reds of elegance, allure and restraint, not to mention electrifyingly aromatic, mouth-wateringly crisp and engagingly focused whites. These however were precisely the styles I was hoping to find during the trip; my palate in dire need of excitement following a spate of recent tasting disappointments. Was sweet salvation heading my way?
The region of Galicia first captured my attention in the form of Albarino, a grape I recall being immediately enamoured by, later forming something of an affinity with. In many ways a paragon of the “New Spain”, I had until now been resigned to indulging over the lavish accounts of returning colleagues or (worse still) drooling over the technicolour treats of TV travel shows. To experience the scenery, sights, cuisine, culture and (of course) wines of this majestic North-eastern Iberian extremity was one I felt I had waited too long for. Bring it on, I mused.
That the province carries the alias of “Green Spain” seemed befitting of this serene and remote setting. As expected, this indeed presented a very detached setting to the sun baked, arid and flat country that I knew from holidays passed. As our bus sped from Oporto airport up and over the Spanish border, initial impressions transcended any expectations that had manifested prior to departure, the landscape rich with deep jade valleys, undulating emerald hills and gaping rivers bearing down on us as we headed to the port town of Vigo – our base for the next two days.
Following a memorable first evening that featured a procession of boats, Albarino, shellfish, more Albarino, more shellfish, boats again and finally....Albarino(!), we hit the road early on day 2, heading southeast to the neighbouring province of Castile-Leon. Destination; the DO region of Bierzo, featuring a visit to Bodegas Pittacum, the sister winery of the trips hosts Bodegas Terras Gauda. Admittedly, previous experience with this elusive and still somewhat niche Mencia based red wine had been pretty limited, although what I had tasted had definitely appealed – the crunchy red fruit flavours laced with smoky mineral overtones and deliciously assertive acidity still vivid in my mind. Think perhaps Chinon meets Ribera del Duero with a whisper of Crozes Hermitage thrown in for good measure. Upon arrival we were immediately whisked off on an intimate vineyard tour lead by resident winemaker Alfredo - Spain’s answer to Richard Gere I was reliably informed by the swooning female contingent. A reserved yet infectious passion was communicated through our translator as we were guided over quartz rich slopes, through a jungle of ancient sprawling bush trained vines before sampling a selection of freshly picked Mencia grapes from several different vineyard sites. This all providing a unique and comprehensive demonstration of how site aspect, soil type and vine age can radically alter both the raw fruit’s flavour profile and raw structure for any non-believers out there. The epic lunch that followed – a sumptuous feast of regional nibbles climaxing in a gastronomically gorgeous (first taste!) of roast kid – was enthusiastically interjected pre dessert by a short stumble to the wine cellar. Here an impromptu masterclass in blending was conducted, comparing a selection of barrel samples contrasting in provenance, maturity and oak handling before combining them accordingly. A truly unique exploration into the mind of a winemaker, not to mention a helluva lot of fun. In brief conclusion to all seen, heard and tasted I would surmise that with quality, production volume and export all very much on the increase, Bierzo is in teasing peripheral territory of being one of Spain’s big red players. With high spirits, stained teeth, black tongues and palates still singing notes of blackberry, plum and liquorice we bid farewell to our (smouldering?!) Spanish host and made our way back to Vigo for tapas and...you guessed it...a drop or two of Albarino!
With the red half of the trip now conquered, the following day proved a strictly white affair with our by now familiar friend Albarino resuming lead role. This time remaining within the regional confines of Galicia, we drove out to Bodegas Terras Gauda, absorbing the tranquil and unnervingly picturesque surroundings of DO Rias Baixas. This was Green Spain indeed, flashing by in vivid & iridescent tones – scattered with a generous helping of the region’s trademark high trained vines, draped in an eerie cloak of afternoon mist. The accompanying vineyard tour was both a similar and polarised experience. The passion and understanding experienced down in Bierzo was again infectious, but here the free trained bush vines, slatey soils, gentle aspect and moderate warmth were replaced by orderly rows, high trained vines, steeper slopes and a slightly cooler climate. When cultivated in these unique conditions Albarino is capable of producing some of Spain’s very best whites. The grapes inimitable, almost juxtaposed, combination of delicacy, mouthfeel, unnerving acidity, minerality and blissful aromatic splendour mark Albarino out as a grape of indisputable personality and style. Delineated as a producing area in the late 80s, from a relatively small base, whites from this area have (understandably) enjoyed a recent explosion in popularity, quickly establishing the wines as firm favourites with sommeliers, restaurateurs and savvy drinkers across the globe. The ultra modern facilities at Terras Gauda struck me as symbolic of this new ambition and export awareness that has taken hold of the regions producers. Gigantic stainless steel vats, state of the art temperature control units and an ultra-slick bottling line were ostensibly demonstrative of the investment and commitment that has gone in to the concept. With additional plans to open to the public next year and branch out into wine tourism, this is precisely the kind of ambition and innovation required to revise consumer perceptions and build brand loyalty for Spanish wine. As expected, quality and consistency were exemplary throughout the 3 cuvees tasted. Low yields, old vines, selective harvesting, sustainable viticulture and the utilisation of natural yeast strains have all paid dividends, producing wines that combine regionality, expression and above all, perfect balance. Of particular interest is the work being done with the native grape Ciano Blanco, a long forgotten native speciality that been all but eradicated in favour of its trendier regional stablemates. Currently only used as a blending component I am told a commercial release is imminent, which, having tasted the experimental but delicious 2006, promises to be a highly exciting and fully merited addition to the range. Of course it is with seafood that these wines really shine, and a heavenly lunch of clams and octopus accentuated the wines pristine purity and mineral backbone, transforming them from fantastic to an out of this world experience.
A fitting finale to an unforgettable couple of days, this sadly is where the wine stopped flowing. Although only a fleeting visit, all fortunate enough to have participated left Spain with an enhanced perspective and understanding not just of the producers and wines visited, but also of the culture, geography and history of the region. In summary, on this evidence the modern face of Spanish wine represents one chiselled with the look of ambition, confidence and imagination – often interesting and great value - boasting a plethora of unique styles and varieties.
For excitement, individuality and culinary compatibility do investigate Bierzo and Albarino for some inspiring and gratifying list additions. Here is a round up of what to check out:
San Campio Albarino 2007 - Rias Baixas
Albarino how it should be. Delectably aromatic, endearingly delicate and refreshingly crisp. Aromas of ripe peach, gala melon, jasmine & citrus grace the nose, whilst the palate boasts a succulent intensity and exotic spiciness, seamlessly bound together by a salivating brace of mineral laden acidity. Screaming out for shellfish.
O Rosal 2007 – Rias Baixas
The estates flagship wine combines a unique blend of Albarino, Loureiro and Caiño Blanco to devastating effect. Judiciously combined, the three varieties produce a white that transcends its individual components; aromatically imposing, but with a little more restraint and smoke infused minerality then its baby bro. Oily and textural in the mouth, deep in grapefruit, citrus and mineral flavours and big on length. A must try.
O Rosal Black Label 2006 – Rias Baixas
The oak aged, über -swish, deluxe cuvee of the above, produced in miniscule quantities. Though barrel aging such a delicate and aromatic grape can be regarded as slightly unconventional, here, with application of TLC and restraint, the results are sublime. Subtle smoky oak derived undertones fuse with a blistering onslaught of apricot, grapefruit, acacia and honey. Medium weight in the mouth with a lovely contrast of luscious fruit and savoury aspects. An awesome effort. Try with sea bass.
Pittacum Bierzo 2004 – Bierzo
Drinking beautifully well, this 100% Mencia release is now starting to blossom, revealing seductive secondary scents of rose petal, liquorice and herbs along with sweet overtones of plum, red cherry and spicy oak. Mid weight, structured and endowed with a vibrant fleshy fruit core with moments of cedar and smoke. Gorgeous stuff to vanquish memories of Rioja.
Pittacum Bierzo Aurea 2005 – Bierzo
A limited release premium expression produced from the very best vineyard site, this is a markedly different creature to its younger regional sibling. Ultra concentrated, unbelievably structured & still but a pup, this divine old vine offering has been given the full whack of 18 months new oak and ultra ripe Mencia fruit, making this one of the regions most celebrated & sought after releases. Result? Awesome. Big, broody and intense with a complex array of blackberry, mocha, graphite and violet aromas. Concentrated and very structured in the mouth with sublime depth, cultured tannins and a length that goes on and on.
All featured wines are available through on trade specialists Les Caves de Pyrene. For more information contact / 01483 538820.