Bubblin’ Over - The Burghound bones up on Philly
NV Brut – Royale Réserve Champagne 90/100
NV Brut – Royale Réserve Non Dosé Champagne 92/100
NV Brut – Réserve Rosée Champagne 91/100
2002 Brut Rosé – Cuvée 1522 Champagne 93/100
2000 Brut – Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé Champagne 96/100
2002 Brut – Grand Blanc Champagne 93/100
1998 Brut – Clos des Goisses Champagne 95/100
1999 Brut - Clos des Goisses Champagne 94/100
NV Brut – Royale Réserve: (disgorged April, 2006). This is the same cuvée and disgorgement date that was reviewed two years ago. The nose has definitely picked up some aged notes but remains wonderfully fresh, expressive and clean with the same notes of subtle yeast, citrus blossom and touches of green apple. The flavors also remain effusively effervescent with plenty of personality and good volume on the slightly toasty and mouth coating finish. This is drinking perfectly though it could easily rest for another 2 to 3 years in the cellar if desired. 90/now+
NV Brut – Royale Réserve Non Dosé: (disgorged October, 2008). A complex and extremely pretty nose that is more floral than citrus slides gracefully into highly effervescent and utterly delicious flavors that are, like the name suggests, extremely dry but not really austere but one aspect that distinguishes this from most Brut Nature examples is that it offers good complexity, something that the genre often does not develop. If your taste runs to extremely dry but not aggressive Champagne, take a look at this one as it’s a keeper. 92/now+
NV Brut – Réserve Rosée: (note that the spelling of Rosée uses the old French and is not a typo). This is very much in keeping with both the style and quality of the cuvée reviewed two years ago. The latest version trades a bit of complexity for more elegance as the distinctly light red berry fruit and very pure nose is mildly higher-toned and complements the crisp, lilting and beautifully detailed flavors that possess a very fine bead on the lingering finish. A drink or hold wine that should provide
excellent enjoyment all along the way. 91/now+
2002 Brut – Grand Blanc: (about 15% of the blend is from Clos des Goisses). An ultra elegant, pure and refined nose that is highly complex features notes of citrus, brioche and rose petal, all of which are also reflected by the detailed, intense, racy and crisp flavors that are every bit as complex and refined as the nose, all wrapped in an explosive finish that goes on and on. This is still quite youthful though there is enough mid-palate fat that it could easily be enjoyed now. Personally, I would suggest giving this another 2 to 4 years in the cellar first though the 2002 vintage is so approachable that you don’t feel as though cracking a bottle is truly egregious infanticide. 93/2012+
2002 Brut Rosé – Cuvée 1522: A very lightly colored rosé. The beautifully complex, pure and refined nose of red pinot fruit and a background note of raspberry announces the crisp and equally pure flavors that dance across the palate before culminating in a dry and penetrating finish. The bead is relatively fine and the balance is impeccable. If the flavors can eventually match the nose for overall depth, my score could be conservative. Moreover, given the relative youthfulness, it should be able to add more depth in time. A beautiful effort. 93/2012+
2000 Brut – Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé: (only the second vintage for this wine). This is neither deeply colored nor light pink, which serves as an accurate indication of the kind of rosé this is. An ultra pure nose where the pinot character really expresses itself but in contrast to many examples of the genre, it’s complex but not overly fruity. Classy and sophisticated are good descriptors and these traits also describe well the equally pure, precise, intense and utterly delicious flavors that enjoy an
extremely fine effervescence, all wrapped in a crisp, palate staining and gorgeously long finish. This is still very much of a baby and while there is enough age that it could be enjoyed now (I did), for my taste I would tuck any bottle I could find away for at least 5 years. In sum, this is fantastic but very, very young. 96/2014+
1998 Brut – Clos des Goisses: (a 70% pinot, 30% chardonnay blend from a single vineyard that sees some oak). A brilliant, complex and broad-ranging nose offers up floral, citrus, yeast and extremely subtle red berry hints that complement perfectly the delicious, restrained and still quite youthful flavors that are very crisp and impressively precise with a medium effervescence on the deep, palate staining and lingering finish. The ’98 isn’t quite in the league of the superb ’96 but it’s not far off either and in my view, trumps the ’97 and ’99 as well. 95/2012+
1999 Brut – Clos des Goisses: (a 70% pinot, 30% chardonnay blend from a single vineyard that sees some oak). A wonderfully delicate and pure nose that is understated yet superbly classy with discreet yeast and green apple notes where the aromas are beginning to reveal only the initial hints of maturity and are followed by complex and equally understated flavors that are an exercise in finesse and balance. A “Zen” Clos des Goisses and one that should age for a very long time in this format. While the ‘99 is not one of the truly great vintages of Clos des Goisses, it’s pretty impressive all the same.