Wine region: Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige

The regions of Trentino-Alto-Adige produce a consistently high standard of wine, centred in two large DOC zones: Trentino in the south and Alto Adige or Südtirol, the province’s blanket appellation. The Alto Adige DOC takes in wines from distinct zones noted for class: Colli di Bolzano/Bozner Leiten, Meranese di Collina/Meraner, Santa Maddalena/St Magdalener, Terlano/Terlan, Valle d’Isarco/Eisacktal, and Val Venosta/Vinschgau.

Although experts agree that the Alpine climate favours grapes for perfumed white wines, the historical emphasis has been on reds, which account for nearly two-thirds of the region’s production. The dominant vine variety of Alto Adige is Schiava or Vernatsch, source of light, bright reds. The most highly regarded of these is St Magdalener or Santa Maddalena, grown on the picturesque slopes overlooking Bolzano. The best known wine is Caldaro or Kalterersee, produced from vines around the pretty lake of that name.

The ranks of roseate ruby wines from Schiava extend through the South Tyrol along the Adige river into Trentino and Veneto under the Valdadige or Etschtaler appellation. That applies to red and white wines of popular commercial standards. Other reds show greater class. Alto Adige’s native Lagrein and Trentino’s Teroldego stand with northern Italy’s most distinguished vines, making wines of singular personality.

Lagrein thrives on the gravelly plains along the Adige at Gries, a quarter of Bolzano where the wine achieves full, round, plus qualities with a bit of age. Santa Maddalena has a long-standing reputation as a refined light red. Teroldego, grown on the Rotaliano plain north of Trento, is an unusually attractive red when young, with capacity to age splendidly from good vintages. Elisabetta Foradori through a selection massale has rediscovered the potential of this grape variety and her Teroldegos combine power with finesse. Trentino’s Marzemino makes a fresh, lively red for casual sipping.

In both provinces, increasing space has been devoted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, which can reach impressive heights whether alone or in blends. The region also produces some of Italy’s finest rosés, the most impressive being Lagrein Kretzer. The sweet Moscato Rosa, with its gracefully flowery aroma, is a rare and prized dessert wine.

The growing demand for white wines has influenced growers to plant more of the international premium varieties. The altitudes of the vineyards are favourable to aromatic whites: Sylvaner, Kerner, Veltliner, Gewürztraminer, Müller Thurgau and white Moscato. Oddly, it is the less fashionable varieties that receive the best and highest expositions in these region. But the quality of Chardonnay, Pinots Bianco and Grigio and Sauvignon from certain estates can also stand with Italy’s finest. Trentino’s native Nosiola makes a tasty dry white and is also the base of Vino Santo, an opulent dessert wine from the Valle dei Laghi north of Lake Garda.

Although the region’s white wines are sometimes considered light by international standards, the best of them have an unexpected propensity to age. Pinot Bianco, Riesling, Sylvaner and Müller Thurgau have been known to remain fresh and vital for a decade or more. But the emphasis remains on the popular Pinot Grigio and, increasingly, on Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.

Trentino, which boasts Italy’s largest production of Chardonnay, is a leader with sparkling wines by the classical method, many of which qualify under the prestigious Trento DOC. Alto Adige has also stepped up sparkling wine production. Ultimately, producers in both provinces have been making whites of greater weight and complexity, in particular from Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco and Gewürztraminer, whose name derives from the South Tyrolean village of Tramin.

Trentino, in the Alto Adige region, thrives on polenta, usually made from corn but also from potatoes or buckwheat, which is used in a sort of cake called smacafam, baked with sausage, salt pork and sometimes cheese. Beyond conventional ravioli and tagliatelle, first courses include bigoi (similar to the Veneto’s bigoli) and strangolapreti ("priest strangler” gnocchi of spinach, flour, eggs and cheese).
Soups contain tripe, pork, various vegetables, potatoes and turnips. Cornmeal and wheat flour with milk and butter make an ancient gruel called trisa, or Mus in Alto Adige. Along with recipes for dried cod stoccafisso, omelets and frittate, comes a selection of meats: poultry, rabbit. pork, blood sausages called biroldi and salt-cured beef called carne salata.

Alto Adige’s gastronomic pride is Speck, boned pork flank smoked and aged by artisans, mainly in the Venosta valley. Speck dell’Alto Adige, which rates an IGP, is eaten as an opener or snack sliced or cubed with wedges of dark Bauernbrot or with crisp rye flatbread.

Knödeln, which often contain bits of liver or Speck, also come in a dark version with rye bread, buckwheat flour, leeks and bacon. Both may be served in broth or dry to accompany meats and vegetables. Popular soups contain barley and tripe. Sausage called Hauswurst is served with sauerkraut, pickles and horseradish. Noodles called Spätzli often go with beef dishes, such as peppery Rindsgulasch and Sauerbraten, pot roast with onions, wine and vinegar. From the lofty wilds come brook trout, venison and rare chamois and mountain goat.

Trento’s prominent cheese is Grana Trentino, though Grana Padano DOP and Asiago DOP may also be made in the province. Every Alpine village makes its own version called nostrano (ours). Alto Adige’s many local cheeses include the grainy, sharp Graukäse, soft, mild Pusteria and Pustertaler and goat’s milk Ziegenkäse.

The region is Italy’s leading producer of apples, which appear in strudel and the fritters called Apfelküchel. Krapfen are baked or fried pastries with jam. Zelten is a rye flour Christmas cake with candied fruit, nuts, honey, cinnamon and liqueur, though recipes vary between provinces. Trentino’s sweet version of buckwheat smacafam contains raisins, nuts and aniseed.