Wine region: Italy, Molise

The often overlooked region of Molise, which was once an appendix of Abruzzo, gained official status in wine in the 1980s with the DOCs of Biferno and Pentro di Isernia. The undeniable aptitude for vines on the sunny hillsides between the Apennines and the Adriatic indicates that with a little more effort Molise’s wine producers could match on a small scale the quality of their neighbors in Abruzzi, Apulia or Campania.

The recent DOC of Molise takes in a number of Italian and native varieties, creating new possibilities for producers who are striving to establish an identity with wine beyond the region. The rolling hills and the mild Adriatic climate of Molise should enable classy wines, though the evidence in bottle has been scarce so far.

The IGT category of Osco or Terre degli Osci refers to the Oscan people who inhabited Molise in prehistoric times. The other IGT category is Rotae.

The Di Majo Norante winery is located to the north of the Gargano in Molise on the estate of the Marquis Norante of Santa Cristina. This estate has been dedicated to the cultivation of vines since the 1800s. In the 1960s a modern cantina was constructed and vines were replanted in the Ramitello zone. Optimal exposure, constant breezes during the summer, excellent soil composition and a slope toward the Sciabolone and Madonna Grande valleys, blend together to create a particularly favourable environment for the production of wine.

In the hills of Molise, lamb, kid and mutton are popular, along with pork for sausages, salame and soppressata, sometimes preserved in terra-cotta vases under fine local olive oil. Prosciutto may be salt cured, though it is also smoked--rare in Italy. Prominent cheeses are caciocavallo from the town of Agnone, pecorino and scamorza. Part of the Caciocavallo Silano DOP is in Molise.
The port of Termoli provides triglie di scoglio (red mullet, base of a tasty soup), fresh anchovies, squid, crabs, clams and sea snails.

Molise produces quantities of dried pasta, though in country homes women still often roll the dough by hand. Specialties include sagne (lasagne), laganelle (tagliatelle), crejoli (similar to the Abruzzi’s maccheroni alla chitarra) and recchietelle (orecchiette). Pasta is often served with ragout of lamb and pork, invariably with diavolillo (chili pepper), and a grating of sharply flavored pecorino cheese.
The tomato, fresh or preserved, is omnipresent in Molise, as are beans and artichokes. Campobasso is noted for giant white celery. The region also produces fine extra virgin olive oil.