Wine region: Italy, Campania

Campania – A Tradition of Viticulture

What makes Campanian wines so interesting are the native grape varieties cultivated since Roman times. Particularly noticeable is a lovely natural acidity that ensures a long life and wonderful balance. Take Fiano, for example, originally named Latino, to be distinguished from grapevines of Greek origin.  It is a vigorous grapevine flourishing both in volcanic soils as well as clayey ones. The first evidence of its existence dates back to the twelfth century, when the noble Fiano aroused the interest of Federico II from Svevia, who gave order to purchase it, and of Carlo d’Angiò, who had 16,000 vines sent to Manfredonia for a royal vineyard planting. So now you know. It presents a light straw yellow colour and elegant perfumes with floral, fruity bouquet and pleasant mineral hints that with age are enriched with resinous notes and honey flavours. On the palate it is dry, fine, savoury, well structured and balanced. Appreciable for its aromatic persistence, exalting the long sensations of peach and ripe pear, it can also be quite smoky.

Falanghina is an ancient species of grape, which was already familiar to the Samnites and Romans who prized it and also called it Falernina, due to its diffusion throughout the “Falernus Ager”. It was probably Roman merchants who brought this grape from Greece to Italy, spreading its cultivation throughout the centre and south. It owes its Latin name to the word “phalange”, namely “tied to the pole”, describing the ancient system of cultivation used to make the vines grow. Firm reports on the vine are more recent and date back to 1825, when Falanghina was mentioned in a treaty as being one of the best Samnite-origin grape species. Later on, in the thirties, a group of oenologists were to crown Falanghina as one of the best Italian grape species, to the extent that they recommended its diffusion in order to improve production in the South’s main wine producing areas. Today, Falanghina is experiencing renewed success thanks to a policy of rediscovery and enhancement of historical and regional grape species.

Falanghina is currently widespread throughout Campania, where it is used for making the homonymous wine and in many DOC wines (Denominazione di Origine Controllata -Controlled Denomination of Origin), both in its pure form (such as the Campi Flegrei Falanghina, Sant’Agata dei Goti Falanghina and Taburno Falanghina wines), as well as together with other white grapes (such as for Capri white wines, Costa d’Amalfi white and Falerno del Massico white wine). Its ideal habitat is on the island of Procida, in the Campi Flegrei area and in the Sannio. The vine matures in the second half of September and is generally harvested at the start of October. Falanghina is a white wine with a delicate nose, with hints of broom, whilst it is full-bodied, fresh and pleasant on the palate. It has good acidity and fine, delicate, fruity notes. It has a broad and pleasantly bitter aftertaste that recalls the pomegranate. It can be drunk with grilled or fried fish, with pasta dishes with seafood or vegetable and tomato sauces; it happily accompanies the most traditional recipes from the Campania region, such as “paccari napoletani”.

Greco di Tufo makes enchanting wines. In ancient times its excellent grapes were named Aminea Gemina because they generated some characteristic double bunches. According to Aristotle, the Aminea grapevine comes from Thessaly, native land of the Amines who settled in Campania and planted the Greco on the slopes of Vesuvius. Mentioned by Columella, Plinio and Virgilio, the Aminea grapes have been appreciated since the ancient times for particular ageing capacity. For centuries, the Montefusco area has been the elected site for the Greco cultivation, due to the extraordinary mineral characteristics of its soil. Good Greco has brilliant, luminous deep golden colour with flashes of gold and green. It’s an elegant and balanced wine with captivating fragrances of white flowers, minerals, citrus, white fruit, pear and apple overlaid by sensations of honey. The fine acidity melds well in the richness of the body and in the long aftertaste of fruit and mineral.

Grown on the Apennines belt overlooking all three seas, Tyrrhenian, Ionian and Adriatic, Aglianico is considered the linking element among the great southern red wines and it is rated along with the best red grapevines in Italy. The origin of its name is controversial: several researchers date the Aglianico (or Glianica) etymon back to Hellanico or Hellenic, confirming the Greek origin of the grapevine. In Porta’s opinion (1592) the Hellenics vines coincided with the ancient Helvolae described by Columella and Pliny. Recent studies considering the assonance between “guaranico” and Glianico, locate in Aglianico the ancient Guarano mentioned by Pliny. Enough already of the fancy-schmancy etymology for the Taurasi wines can speak volumes for themselves.  The aromas bloom of ample ripe cherries, sweet spices, plum, tobacco, pepper, tar, eucalyptus, vanilla, liquorice and coffee. On the palate the wine is typically supple and silky, followed by concentrated texture mellowed into the richness and ripeness of the body. The tannins are sweet and fine, the finish is a very long revival of fruity, spiced and toasty sensations.

Posted by admin on 19-Jan-2009. Permalink

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