Grape Variety: Viognier

Colour: White

Viognier is a remarkably difficult grape to grow. It is prone to powedery mildew, produces notoriously low and unpredictable yields, and needs to be picked when fully ripe. If it is picked too early it fails to develop its classic aromas and rich tastes. But despite, or perhaps because of, this precariousness it has the most amazing clear, golden colour and the aroma of flowers and fruits at their freshest. Many talk of being surprised by the taste; the colour and nose hinting at something sweeter but the actually taste being dry with a variety of nuances both on the tongue and afterwards.

The significant differences in taste between the Condrieu/Château-Grillet wines and those of the rest of France and the World have been put down to a number of factors. Two of the most prevalent are the soil and the strain of vine. The soils of the Northern Rhône have a light sandy topsoil over granite while many of the other growing areas are more loamy to clay-like. There is also some suggestion that a mutant strain of the vine has appeared recently which now characterises most recent plantings and which results in grapes producing wine with less concentration.

The vines producing the best wines are over 20 years old (the Northern Rhône have vines of 70 years or older). The majority of the plantings outside the Northern Rhône mean that most are less than 10 years old which mean their potential has yet to be realised.

Although low-acidity Viogniers do not require the heavy oaking to provide balance, some sensitive use of oak barrels can enhance the overall flavour.

It is best known for its apricot, peach and spice flavours, together with high alcohol (often over the 13% mark) and low acidity. Oz Clarke described this grape as combining “spring and autumn in a single glass”. At its most perfumed it throws out notes of mayflower, acacia, jasmine, orange blossom, honeysuckle and rose – even violet. The fruits are plumptious as Nigella Lawson might say: imagine sweet plums, pear william, guava and candied peel. Texturally, Viognier is rich, powerful and oily and amongst all the flower and fruit flavours one can detect overtones of vanilla and cream and – with age – toast.

As with many white wines it is generally best consumed young, although the classic Viogniers of the North Rhône (and increasingly wines from the oldest vines in California and Australia) can develop well for much longer. Condrieu has been called ‘the most expensive early drinking wine in the world.’ You can drink it with many foods or none. Try matching it with spicy Thai cuisine, Chinese, Mexican dishes, medium to strong and salty cheeses, strong flavoured fish dishes, pork and chicken and fresh fruit.

The Condrieu from Stephane Montez (Domaine du Monteillet) is full-bodied, powerful and aromatic with aromas of lime-blossom and honeysuckle, vinous and spicy with vanillin notes, dried citrus fruits and apricots. Should be opened about half an hour before serving and not chilled too much. The oaky notes disappear by the third glass and the wine becomes rounder and fruitier with honeyed tones and almost tropical fruit flavours. This would be interesting with crab salad, seafood risotto, creamy curries or pork with rosemary.

Viognier crops up in varietal form in wines from Gerard Bertrand and La Boussolle. In blends it works particularly well with Chardonnay as in the Domaine de l’Hortus Blanc where it is intensely aromatic with a profound nose of lime blossom, acacia, honeysuckle and allspice, toasty/buttery oak on the mid-palate and ripe unctuous long finish with peaches and apricots. It is brilliant in the Terres d’Argence Mourgues du Gres where it counterpoints the Grenache Blanc and Roussanne and gives a thrilling aromatic lift to the palate. Viognier is also a major component in the multi-faceted blend of Mas de Daumas Blanc where it bequeaths intense notes of dry honey.