Grape Variety: Semillon

Colour: White

The Sémillon grape is rather heavy, with low acidity and an almost oily texture. It has a high yield and wines based on it can age a long time. Along with Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle, Sémillon is one of only three approved white wine varieties in the Bordeaux region. The grape is also key to the production of sweet wines such as Sauternes.

Sémillon is the major white grape in the Bordeaux wine regions and Côtes de Gascogne. Whereas today Australia’s major white varieties are Chardonnay and Sauvignon blanc, early in the country’s viticultural development it was Sémillon, then mislabelled as Riesling.

In France, the Sémillon grape is grown mostly in Bordeaux where it is blended with Sauvignon blanc and Muscadelle. When dry, it is referred to as Bordeaux blanc and is permitted to be made in the appellations of Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Entre-deux-mers and other less-renowned regions. In this form, Sémillon is generally a minor constituent in the blend. However, when used to make the sweet white wines of Bordeaux (such as those from Sauternes, Barsac and Cérons) it is often the dominant variety. In such wines the vine is exposed to botyrtis which consumes the water content of the fruit, concentrating the sugar present in its pulp. When attacked by botrytis, the grapes shrivel and the acid and sugar levels are intensified.

Sémillon is widely grown in Australia, particularly in the Upper and Lower Hunter Valley north of Sydney, where for a long time it was known as “Hunter River Riesling”. Four styles of Sémillon-based wines made there: a commercial style, often blended with Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc; a sweet style, after that of Sauternes; a complex, minerally, early picked style which has great longevity; and an equally high quality,dry style, which can be released soon after vintage, as a vat or bottle aged example. (Hunter Valley Semillon is never matured in oak.) The latter two styles were pioneered by Lindemans, Tulloch, McWilliam’s Elizabeth, Drayton’s and Tyrrell’s, and are considered unique to Australia. Most examples of these bottle-aged Hunter Semillons exhibit a buttercup-yellow colour, burnt toast or honey characteristics on the nose and excellent complex flavours on the palate, with a long finish and soft acid. Young Hunter Valley semillon is almost always a dry wine, usually exhibiting citrus flavours of lemon, lime or green apple.

In Monbazillac the sweetness of a wine can range from moelleux to profound nectars. There are two sweet wines made at Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure. Cuvée Abbaye, (70% Sémillon, 30% Muscadelle picked on successive tries through the vineyard) with its spanking botrytis, is absolutely stunning, a wine to give top Sauternes a run for its money. Deep gold, honeyed, fat with peachy botrytis tones, gingerbread, hazelnuts, fresh mint and eucalyptus on the palate. The Ancienne Cure is mini Mon-bee, marzipan, orange peel and spices. Christian Roche has emerged in the last five years as one of the best growers in this appellation. Either of these wines could be drunk with Roquefort, apple tarte tatin and white peaches.

Luc de Conti specialises in making brilliant dry Bergeracs. Cuvée des Conti is a creamy Sémillon-dominated effort spending eight months on the lees and a month in barriques for the Muscadelle. Imagine waxy apricots and sweet cashews with a dash of lime, ginger, cumin and white pepper. The straight Moulin des Dames made from grapes harvested on Les Gendres plot and containing 70% Sauvignon and 30% Sémillon, exudes buttery white-apricot fruit; the oak is beautifully integrated. The fermentation is in barrels made from Allier oak – 50% new, 50% used before. There is no filtration or fining. Intense buttery texture, super-rich warm spiced apricots, peaches and quinces, incredible concentration and well-defined minerality. Ample mouthfeel and vivacity essential for a fine equilibrium.

These dry wines marry beautifully with scallops, monkfish, chicken and pork.