Grape Variety: Sangiovese

Colour: Red

Sanguis Jovis, the Latin origin for the varietal name, literally means “blood of Jove” and it is likely that Sangiovese (a.k.a. Sangioveto or San Gioveto) was known by Etruscan winemakers, although the first literary reference to it was in 1722. It is probably indigenous to Tuscany, whose most famous wine is Chianti.

The basic blend of Chianti was established by Baron Ricasoli in the 1890s. This averages 70% sangiovese as the varietal base (along with 15% canaiolo [red], and 15% trebbiano [white] and sometimes a little colorino [red]). Many vineyards are traditionally planted with this varietal mix. It is difficult even for the Italians to keep up with their own ever-changing and very detailed wine laws, which specify permitted grape types, maximum yields per acre, minimum alcohol content, minimum aging standards before sale, etc. Currently, the minimum amount of Sangiovese permitted in Chianti is 90%. Other grapes that may be used now include malvasia toscana, a white grape far superior to the ubiquitous trebbiano. Still, the total white grapes used must not exceed 5% of the blend.

In some ways Sangiovese is to Chianti as Cabernet Sauvignon is to Bordeaux. Both form the base of wines normally blended with other varietals and both by themselves share a certain distinctive elegance and complexity, when well-made.

There are at least 14 separate and distinct clones of sangiovese. At one point, there was some attempt in Italy to identify two separate “families”, Grosso and Piccolo, although this seemed to have more commercial basis ("mine’s better than yours") than ampelographic or taste evidence to justify this attempt to classify.

The fruit is slow to mature and late-ripening. With relatively thin skins, it has a tendency to rot in dampness and does not mature well if planted above an elevation of 1,500 feet. Sangiovese vineyards with limestone soil seem to produce wines with more forceful aromas.

The hot, dry climate, such as Tuscany provides, is where Sangiovese thrives. Because these climatic criteria generally enhance quantity, rather than quality, it takes careful cultivation and winemaking techniques to produce really excellent wine from this grape. The official classification of Chianti itself demonstrates the widely fluctuating range of Sangiovese quality from those identified as ordinary vino di tavola to the highest classico superiore.

The flavour profile of Sangiovese is fruity, with moderate to high natural acidity and generally a medium-body ranging from firm and elegant to assertive and robust and a finish that can tend towards bitterness. The aroma is generally not as assertive and easily identifiable as Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, but can have a strawberry, blueberry, faintly floral, violet or plummy character.

The Chianti Colli Senesi from Vittoria Innocente is a lovely meaty-gamey style of Sangiovese (with some Canaiolo Toscano) with flavours of spicy ripe cherries, roasted herbs, leather and liquorice. Aged in oak for two years Innocente Vino Nobile is ruby red in colour tending towards garnet with age. It is a dense, spicy wine with cinnamon, plums and tea flavours finishing dry and slightly tannic with a delicate scent of violets. Perfect with steak, preferably bistecca alla fiorentina, grilled with olive oil and salt.

Fattoria Rodano makes wines that respect the tradition of Chianti Classico but also have “modern components” from the ageing in small French barrels. Luscious plum, cinnamon, wild strawberries with a ruddy cherry sweetness mark this excellent value Chianti Classico. The savoury fruit is well balanced and lifted by the piquant acidity. Elegant and lengthy in the finish. Grilled lamb chops would be appropriate.

Giovanna Morganti is quickly becoming recognised as one of the best of the new generation of Tuscan winemakers. Her small estate is only three hectares and her only wine is called “Le Trame” (the intrigues) signifying the wheeling and dealing required to purchase the land. Giovanna’s father was a legendary winemaker who believed in Tuscan varietals long before the flying oenologists identified this area as super pay-dirt. She studied oenology herself and went to the work in the mid 1980s for San Felice wines in Castelnuovo Berardenga, near Siena, on a project to plant around 300 traditional Tuscan grape varietals collected from old vineyards. She makes only one wine, a Chianti Classico, which is sumptuous, silky and plummy at the same time. A different incarnation of Chianti Classico and Sangiovese to the others we have on our list.

The organic Caparsino estate makes firm, ageworthy wines from virtually 100% Sangiovese.A ruby colour greets you then red cherries and violets leap from the glass in a context of great purity and modern classicism. On the palate sweet warm alcoholic notes are kept in check by the firm tannins and racy acidity. The wine closes on crystal clean and persistent sensations. 

Il Paradiso di Manfredi today is one of the best expressions of traditional Brunello di Montalcino. Viticulture and vineyard rhythm is effectively biodynamic. Pesticides and weedkillers are eschewed, the waxing and waning of the moon determines activity in the vineyard and the winery. They hand-pick the grapes, the wild ferment takes place in concrete vats ( no temperature control… ) after which the wine spends 36/40 months in big casks of Slavonian oak. Many producers flunked out of the 2002 vintage after heavy rains drowned the vineyards. This estate picked the day before the deluge. Real Sangiovese displaying wicked wild cherry fruit along with notes of herbs, leather, liquorice, pepper and spice and nascent prune, tar and tobacco aromas. It’s so savoury that the food you are thinking of cooks and present itself at the table.

The Rosso di Montalcino, Pian dell ‘Orino is made from pure Sangiovese Grosso. The grapes are selected in the same way as for the Brunello di Montalcino. The difference is found in the wine-making. Spontaneous fermentation starts after one or two days of maceration. The temperature is automatically controlled so that it does not exceed 30°C. The must macerates for two or three weeks, depending on the vintage, in order to obtain mainly fruity flavours and finesse. Once fermentation has concluded, the wine is transferred to barriques and small 500-litre barrels, where the malolactic fermentation takes place. After maturing for one year in the barrels, the wine is bottled and kept in the cellar for another three months. Beautiful wine. Restrained, almost poised nose, then supremely elegant with vivid red and black fruits underpinned by vibrant minerality. This wine makes my spirit soar.