Grape Variety: Sagrantino

Colour: Red

The hills around Montefalco, to the south of Perugia in the heart of Umbria, represent the richest and most varied grape-growing and winemaking district in the region. The vinicultural tradition of the district originated in the Middle Ages through the work of the Benedictines, who put waste land into cultivation and planted some of the most ancient and typical Umbrian varieties.

One of them is the celebrated Sagrantino, which is said to be of local origin, although many other hypotheses have been advanced to explain its appearance at Montefalco. Some experts say it was brought to the district by the first Franciscan friars, who planted it throughout the area. Others still argue that it was imported from Spain, although it might also have been introduced by the Saracens.

Sagrantino yields an excellent red wine as well as an aromatic beverage made from dried grapes that is considered one of the finest dessert wines of central Italy. In the Renaissance, the wines produced in the zone were sufficiently appreciated that they were served at the tables of popes and governors.

In succeeding centuries, they maintained their reputations, although often only on a local level. With the receipt of the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in 1980, upgraded to Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita in 1993, these wines took on new life, for that recognition assured them sales on the domestic as well as foreign markets.

Paulo Bea is a real artisan producer making organic hand-crafted wines. References in the archive of Montefalco, a beautiful Umbrian hill town (aren’t they all?), document the presence of the Bea family in this region as early as 1500. This tiny estate is the classic Italian Fattoria, producing wine, raising farm animals for trade and home consumption and working the land to produce olives, fruits and vegetables. Paolo Bea, the senior member of the family, is the guiding force behind the production of these intensely pure wines, assisted by his son, Giuseppe, who farms the vineyards and Giampero who looks after the vinification. No herbicides or pesticides are used at Paolo Bea. He believes that wine is an expression of nature and looks forward to the differences in each harvest (hence the Rosso de Veo in 2002). The wines are produced in the traditional way; grapes are hand picked and bottled without filtration.

Sagrantino is the predominant grape, covering 60% of the vineyard area. The remaining 40% is planted to Sangiovese and Montepulciano, with a small parcel planted to several white grape varieties.

All grapes are harvested manually and the reds undergo an extensive cuvaison that lasts up to four weeks. Malolactic fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The Montefalco Rosso is bottled after 20 months, while the Sagrantino secco and Montefalco Riserva remain in barrel for an additional period before bottling (without fining or filtration). The Sagrantino is amazing: the grapes are left to macerate for 39 days. It has a dark purple hue with a full, powerful nose of raisined berries and smoke. The palate unfolds an array of blackberries, currants, cinnamon and clove, is mouth-filling, warm and dense. Montefalco Rosso Riserva “Piparello”, made from 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano, and 15% Sagrantino. Fairly deep garnet. Gorgeous, warm, earthy, chocolate-y, animal scents wrapped around the aroma of blackberries. Extraordinary mouthfeel‚ medium-weight silky, but so light as to be almost evanescent. The amount of flavour from this vinous cloud is astonishing, as is the perfect integration of the bright acidity.

Rosso de Veo is the wine of the 2002 vintage. As the Montefalco and Sagrantino wines were not made, this is a testament to nature. “You gave us this; we give you this in return.” On the one hand powerful, bruised plums and dried figs, on the other delicacy and beautiful persistence.

Local dishes that complement these terrific wines might include Anitra Selvatica con Pappardelle; Arrosto di Vitellone; Capretto al Forno con Patate; Porcini Brasati or Piccione Ripieno.

The Passito is made by leaving the grapes to dry after the harvest. A white mould forms that balances and concentrates the acid, sugar and tannins. The grapes, as raisins, contain approximately 30% sugar at this point and they are then crushed. Fermentation begins and slowly progresses until the sugar level reaches 16-18% whereupon pressing takes place with the resulting wine carrying about 90 grams of residual sugar. The wine is then aged in stainless steel and barrel. Huge, raisiny, port-like nose‚ but lacking the smell of alcohol that young port so often has [this wine is not fortified], and carrying extra scents that go beyond port [such as tobacco and wet leaves]. Pretty rich on the palate, fairly sweet, and ever so much gentler than Port, with great fresh-apple acidity. Tastes something like a beautiful cross of dessert-wine motifs from Portugal, Spain, southern France and Italy. Drink slowly and appreciatively with hard or blue cheeses.