Grape Variety: Roussanne

Colour: White

It is likely that Roussanne originated in the northern Rhône where it is today an important component in the wines of Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage, Saint-Joseph and the Saint-Péray AOC where it is used for both still and sparkling wine production. In recent years plantings of Roussanne have declined as Marsanne gains more of a foothold in the northern Rhône due to its high productivity and ease in cultivation. In the southern Rhône, Roussanne is a primary component in the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape where it can compose as much as 80-100% of the wine. It can also be found in some white wines from the Côtes du Rhône AOC. Outside of the Rhône, the Roussanne is grown in Provence and the Languedoc-Roussillon région where it is sometimes blended with Chardonnay, Marsanne and Vermentino in some vin de pays. In Savoie, the grape is known as Bergeron where it produces highly aromatic wines in Chignin.

The grape prefers a long growing season but should be harvested before the potential alcohol reaches 14% which would result in the finished wine being out of balance. If picked too soon, Roussanne can suffer from high acidity. Having said that this quality makes it a desirable partner for blending with low acid grapes such as Viognier and Marsanne. During winemaking, Roussanne is prone to oxidation without care taken by the winemaker. The wine can benefit from a controlled use of oak. In blends, Roussanne adds aromatics, elegance and acidity with the potential to age and further develop in the bottle.

Wines made from Roussanne are characterised by their intense aromatics which can include notes of herbal tea. In its youth it shows more floral, herbal and fruit notes, such as pears that become more nutty as the wine ages. Roussannes from the Savoie region are marked by their pepper and herbal notes. Oz Clarke notes that Roussanne wine and Roussanne-dominated blends can drink very well in first 3 to 4 years of their youth before entering a “dumb phase” where the wine is closed aromatically until the wine reaches 7 or 8 years when the wine develops more complexity and depth. The Roussanne Vieilles Vignes from Chateau Beaucastel is surely one of the finest au naturel examples of this variety and the white Hermitage are brilliant, unusual and ageworthy wines.

Corbières Blanc from Ollieux-Romanis is blended with Marsanne. Golden yellow, aromas of honey, French toast and cinnamon, exotic fruits on the palate, sweet spices and toast from the oak. The Domaine Mourgues du Gres Terres d’Argence Blanc is ample and generous with aromatic fruit. Limeflower and apricots, full in the mouth with surprisingly clean minerality, whilst the Cotes du Ventoux Persia, Domaine de Fondreche is another exotic full-bodied white exhibiting rich aromas of seasoned oak, gingerbread, acacia honey, marzipan and spiced melon. Open several hours before serving and decant.

A terrific example of Roussanne is the part it plays in the blend with Viognier in the white Ardeche from Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet. The merest whiff of honeysuckle is soon overtaken by profound aromas of straw, fennel, butter and yeast. The wine has notably low sulphur levels and conveys an attractive earthiness.

One might drink Roussanne and Roussanne blends with grilled turbot or plaice, although the wines would be equally attractive with crustacea.