Grape Variety: Pineau d’Aunis

Colour: Red

A red grape variety once widely grown in the Loire Valley, particularly around Tours, Anjou and Saumur, but now, alas, largely ripped out to make room for more commercially attractive grapes.

The name “Pineau” rhymes with “Pinot” and comes from the same linguistic root that translates as “pine cone,” presumably from the imagined shape of grapes hanging in bunches on the fine. It’s not a member of the Pinot family, though; nor, says Jancis Robinson in her “Guide to Wine Grapes,” is it “Red Chenin Blanc,” although Loire growers sometimes give it the alternate name “Chenin Noir.”

The best producers respect the vine and work extensively to ensure low yields and healthy grapes. The result, like most good Loire reds, might not please those who prefer big, bold, in-your-face blockbuster wines; but if you enjoy subtlety and intriguing minerality in your wine, then Pineau d’Aunis will float your barge..

Emile Heredia at Domaine de Montrieux makes sterling old vines Pineau d’Aunis. The parcels of vines were chosen for their quality: the old age of the vines, the quality of the soils and the expositions. Soils are flint with clay on top of limestone. The age of the vines permits a natural reduction of the yields and deep root systems assure minerality and intensity of the wines.In order to improve equilibrium and life of the soil and to allow flora and fauna to flourish no chemical products are employed. Sulphur and copper are only used in tiny doses and tisanes made from horsetail and nettle ensure effective phytosanitary protection. Manual harvest respects the quality of the grapes and yields are tiny: 35 hl/ha from densely planted vines. To further this natural approach neither artificial yeasts nor other additives are used in the winemaking process except for a smidge of sulphur at bottling.

After a natural semi-carbonic maceration the wine obtained is light, spicy with delicate tannins. Remarkable aromas catch your attention as soon as you bring your nose to the glass: A whiff of white pepper is quickly followed by a lovely minerality reminiscent of rainwater washing over limestone. Other aromas include red flowers, talcum powder and wild yeast. Fresh strawberries follow, ripe and sweet, leading into a tart, bone-dry red-berry flavour that’s light-bodied but mouth-filling. Lemony acidity, subtle berries and white pepper linger in a long finish. It is be drunk fresh, its mineral, peppery side helps it to marry with grills, charcuterie, cheese and even fish.

Christian Chaussard makes deliciously elegant Pineau d’Aunis at Domainen Le Briseau in the Coteau du Loir. All vineyard work is done according to the principles of organic viticulture (with the certification of Qualité France): no pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers are used; nettle and horsetail decoctions are sprayed on the foliage; copper is used in modest quantity (less than 5kg/ha); the vines are ploughed and grass allowed to grow between the rows. In 2006, the estate started its conversion to biodynamic principles.Their wines have a wonderful way of being carefree, yet beautifully made. Les Mortiers is a cornucopia of red fruit notes—wild strawberry, raspberry and thimbleberry with a hint of rose geranium, are graced with the characteristic spice of Pineau d’Aunis, revealed as a dusting of black pepper. Lovely just for sipping.

Bright red cherry, strawberry and pomegranate notes are highlighted in Les Longues Vignes by the distinctive dusting of black pepper typical of this grape variety. A bit of smokiness and a waft of violets lend seductiveness to the mix. The texture is a bit chewy, though the wine is graceful. Serve cool with poached salmon with samphire.