Grape Variety: Nerello Cappuccio

Colour: Red

Nerello Cappuccio, aka Nerello Mantellato, its name attributed to the unique “mantle shape form”, cappuccio, which is cultivated like alberello (free standing bush). Although its origin is unknown, it has always been present, in small percentages (15-20%) together with Nerello Mascalese, in the Etna territory. In the last few decades, it was largely abandoned by the vine growers, almost risking extinction. This variety is constituted as an Etna Rosso D.O.C. (20%).

The winemaking philosophy under Salvatore Geraci is simple: make two wines with the same indigenous grapes but with different selections. His Rosso del Soprano, a blend based on a wine known in antiquity as Mamertino, comes from the native nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, and nocera grapes.

The primary wine to be featured from Palari is Faro. Here the wine includes a finer selection of the same grapes to make this a Tre Bicchieri winner. Faro (which means lighthouse) is a little DOC, almost the smallest in Italy. With just above 6 hectares (15 acres) in the DOC area, the production is clearly tiny. Sicily’s increasing focus on modern production techniques and international varieties has had some great success, as at the Planeta estate; but Palari provides a refreshing respite from this trend with their great indigenous wines. Faro has a ruby colour with a hint of purple. The nose is beautifully knit, black cherry to the fore and lightly smoky nuances shimmering in the background. It is remarkably elegant with a complete lack of over-ripeness that characterises many southern Italian reds.

The Rosso del Soprano, a blend of the two Nerellos as mentioned and aged in used oak barrels, tastes like the offspring of a meaty Pinot Noir and sun-drenched Grenache. On the nose a mix of berry smells (squashed strawberries) and a touch of earthiness tending towards mushroom, on the palate gentle warmth unfolding to reveal subtle hints of spice, pepper and liquorice. As with the Faro there is a lightness of touch – these fruits may have roasted under a Mediterranean sun, but they are seasoned by the earth and stones.

These Sicilian reds would take nimbly to some roast mountain goat or venison stew.