Grape Variety: Nebbiolo

Colour: Red

The grape is thought to derive its name from the Piedmontese word nebbia which means “fog.” During harvest, generally in late October, a deep, intense fog (or smog) sets into the Langhe region, where Nebbiolo thrives. An alternative (and maybe closer to truth) traditional explanation refers to the white milky veil that forms over the fruits as they reach maturity.

Its history is believed to start in the 13th century, and it was cultivated since the 14th Century in Valtellina, an east-west valley in the Lombardy region at the foot of the Alps, north of Lake Como. Yet, the first clear written references to this grape date back to the 19th century. Until now Valtellina is the only region where Nebbiolo is grown in Italy outside Piedmont, along with the Aosta Valley.

The grape is used to make wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara and Ghemme. These lightly coloured red wines can be massively tannic in youth with intriguing scents of tar and roses. As they age, the wines take on a characteristic brick-orange hue at the rim of the glass and mature to reveal complex aromas and flavours (violets, tar, wild herbs, cherries, raspberries, truffles, tobacco, prunes). These wines often take years to become approachable as they require ageing to tame the tannins from the grapes. As part of a global trend begun in the 1990s, younger producers have sought to make their wines more approachable in their youth. Others have begun to use new barriques to smooth the tough skin of the savage beast.

Nebbiolo is also known as Spanna (in the province of Novara), Picutener and Chiavennasca.

The Gattinara from Rosanna Antoniolo comes from the Alpine foothills close to Lago Maggiore.  The soils of this region are more acidic than those of the Langhe, which, paired with the cooler climate and altitude, results in highly fragrant, elegant wines at their best in hot years. Few estates remain in this historic northerly zone, but tenacious Antoniolo, established in 1949, is surely the most dynamic; Antoniolo was the first producer in the DOCG to bottle cru wines, and is one of the only to bottle 100% Nebbiolo without blending in other varietals. 

The vineyards were planted about fifty years ago on glacial soil (high in acidity) and volcanic soils (rich in minerals). Maceration on the skins in cement vats for 14-16 days, with pumping over followed by maturation for one year in 350-500 litre tonneaux and 18 months in large oak casks (20-25hl). Notes of liquorice, rose, raspberry and soft spiciness intermingle in a pervasive aromatic profile. This fine wine will get to clingy grips with an ox-cheek stew.

The Barbaresco “Fausoni,” from 40-year old vines, is the most floral of Sottimano’s offerings with aromas of cassis, currant and mint, and a firm core of vibrant acidity. Brilliant ruby red colour and nuances of garnet red, moderate transparency. The nose reveals intense, clean, pleasing, refined and elegant aromas that start with hints of cherry, plum and violet followed by aromas of liquorice, menthol, tobacco, vanilla, chocolate, cinnamon and mace. The mouth has good correspondence to the nose, a tannic attack and pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, full body, intense flavours and good tannins. The finish is persistent with flavours of plum and cherry. The 2004 Fausoni is wonderfully harmonious; rarely has a Barbaresco of this ilk drunk so beautifully in its infancy. I asked Andrea Sottimano how it would evolve: “Another two to three years with this type of expression, then, like all strong wines, it will close down for a couple of years, before waking up on the other side”.

The Barolos of Giacomo Borgogno are beautifully preserved. They are unremittingly old-fashioned - new oak lickers these wines are not for you. The winemaking process is a tribute to the great Barolos of the past and uses an extended “submerged cap” maceration process in order to conjure up the special perfumes and tastes of this ancient tradition. The resultant wine has tremendous substance and is intended to age for many years to arrive at the ultimate goal of balance and harmony.

These are not Baroli of extremes. They are not as perfumed as some, nor as brawny as others. The style is consistent, however, and shows off the differences between vintages.

2001 Barolo Liste
Magnificently proportioned wine. Crushed raspberries, almonds, liquorice, violets and sweet rose jostle for attention on the nose, and the palate doesn’t disappoint: plum-cake, prune and chocolate with a hint of tar, massive yet ripe tannins, and excellent acidity to keep the wine percolating around the mouth. 2010 - 2035

2001 Barolo Classico
Classic by name and classic in style. Restrained nose of ground spice (cumin, nutmeg) and dried fruits (prunes, figs). Savoury-tarry attack on the palate, grainy tannins, which begin to melt as the wine warms in the glass. The acidity comes into play giving the wine a purer, more linear composition and adding length to the finish. 2010 - 2030

We are fortunate enough to have stocked and tasted Borgogno Barolos back to 1961. Check out this beauty.

1961 Barolo Riserva
Medium ruby, with a hint of brick at the rim but otherwise showing very little signs of its age. The aromatic nose displays menthol, anise, and delicate, sweet flavours of dried cherries, finishing with tremendous freshness and a seamless, long and fresh finish. The wine is very lively, the grainy tannins giving grip and definition. Now - 2015

Nebbiolo goes wonderfully with game such as Fagiano (pheasant) alla Milanese, Stinco al Forno con Patate and Brasato (beef) alla Lombarda (braised with vegetables and spices). The wines come into play with the denser red meats such as roast kid, wild boar and hare, and, especially in Piedmont, venison.