Grape Variety: Muller-Thurgau

Colour: White

Dr. Hermann Müller, who created the Müller-Thurgau variety in the late 1800s, indicated that this grape was a Riesling-Silvaner hybrid, and this was thought to be the case for many decades. This turned out to be a right Müller’s tale. Most recent DNA analysis indicates that Riesling is one parent but that the other is Chasselas. Regardless of its origins, this white-wine grape is now one of the most widely cultivated grapes in Germany, especially in the regions of Baden, Rheinhessen and Pfalz and is planted in Austria, Switzerland, England, New Zealand, Italy’s northern mountain regions (particularly Alto-Adige), and Hungary (the world’s second largest grower after Germany). Müller-Thurgau grapes tend to produce smooth, low-acidity medium-sweet wines with a hint of Muscat character. Unfortunately, because of high yields these wines generally lack flavour, and most don’t age well. The best wines come from Germany’s Mosel region and Italy’s Alto-Adige, where hand-harvesting and restricted yields produce grapes with concentrated flavours. Müller-Thurgau is also a heavy contributor to the flood of inexpensive and occasionally offensive Liebfraumilch coming out of Germany. Müller-Thurgau is also known as Rivaner.

As mentioned the variety reaches its literal and qualitative peak in Alto-Adige exemplified in the version from Cantina Valle Isarco – it’s simultaneously aromatic and grapey yet also undoubtedly a dry wine, bungful of minerals, like surfing a stony river bed with your tongue. No Müllerlite white this! Try with deep-fried oysters or whitebait.

The Mathis Bastian Rivaner is like a Riesling for beginners, a jolly lemon popsicle.