Grape Variety: Melon de Bourgogne

Colour: White

One of the unusual features of Muscadet, according to the Hachette Guide, is that it is not named after a geographical or historical area, but that the name probably dates from the Middle Ages when Muscat grapes from Cyprus acquired a reputation at feudal courts. After the great frost of 1709 the vineyard was replanted with a Burgundian grape variety, Melon.

Lees are the deposit or sediment left at the bottom of the tank after the wine has fermented. Although the gross, or coarse, lees are eliminated, many Muscadet producers choose to leave the wines on the fine lees to impart aromatic substance and richness to the wines. The sur lie designation contrary to supposition is not given solely to rude French producers, but to Muscadets that have been kept on the lees for more than four months and have not been racked or filtered prior to bottling – which takes place before the last day in June in the year following the vintage.

Pierre Luneau studied with the renowned Emile Peynaud and Ribereau-Gayon and has been making superb Muscadet for as long as we can remember. He keeps a variety of thoroughbred Muscadets in his stable and on his table, terroir differentiation being the name of the game. The vines may be grown on sands and gravel, on granite and gneiss mica, schist or volcanic gabbro, but the mineral, salty nuances are always present and the capacity to age built into the steely structure of the wines. Derivations aside there are few grapes less melony than the variety of the Pays Nantais (don’t forget Gros Plant! I will). Long derided as soapy mouthswill Muscadet has now regained favour with its delicious, crunchy, green-tinged, leesy character.

Oyster, oyster on the tray
Begging for un coup de Muscadet

The answer, my friend, is stirring on the lees, a process that converts green wine into something fully nourished.

Pierre Luneau Papin, as we have mentioned, is one of the apostles of fine Muscadet and makes the Melon variety jump through hoops. His baby of the litter, Domaine du Verger, is properly salty, yet you cannot dismiss it too easily. A far cry from la lavasse served up in so many wine bars. Texturally it lingers on the palate. Next up is the Clos des Allees, a single vineyard, hand-harvested wine from old vines grown as schistous soils, a maceration pelliculaire Muscadet of great depth and focused minerality. Luneau-cy abounds when you taste one of his late release old vintages (under the L d’Or de Luneau label). These are special wines - from a selected terroir of granitic micas - with phenomenal purity, length and elegance. Their development is not unlike a (good) premier cru Chablis – give them 10 years minimum before popping the cork. Finally, consider Muscadet, Clos de Noelles, otherwise known as Excelsior, or Muscadet in Excelsis, a honeydew amongst melons, an example of the relatively new Cru Communale, from vines grown on a designated terroir and aged for a minimum of 24months on the lees. Almost floral with honey-and-yeast notes of sweet brioche it has creamy texture on the palate, a rich smokiness and exceptional length. The poet Andrew Marvell wrote “Stumbling on melons, as I pass…” ” We warrant he never stumbled across a melon like this!