Grape Variety: Mansois

Colour: Red

Mansois, otherwise known as Fer Servadou or Braucol or Pinenc is native to Gaillac and other parts of South West France.  Mansois gives the region its identity and its wine an individual and distinctive taste. In Madiran and Brulhois, it produces a rather heavy, rustic wine that often gives support to the more noble varietals. In Marcillac, however, it normally produces a lighter wine with good colour and hints of raspberry fruit. What sets it off, though, is its perfume of ground red pepper and spice--often paprika.

Marcillac, not far from Rodez at the base of the Aubrac plateau, is linked historically to the Abbey of Conques and is the only appellation of the Aveyron department. Its vineyards are located on very steep hills or terraces with red clay soils (les rougiers) that are rich in ferrous oxide.

Two of our Marcillac growers make wines with 100% Mansois. Jean-Luc Matha, former priest turned clown, makes a jolly divine version called “Cuvée Lairis”, a relatively light-bodied–almost mountain Gamay-meets-Cabernet-Franc -style–with an opaque, raspberry colour and classic hints of paprika and spices on the nose and in the mouth. Good slatey berry fruit, some persimmon, a dash of pepper… light tannins. Worth chilling in the fridge for about 15 minutes before drinking.

The Peirafi, from older vines and lower yields, has a firm smack of mineral terroir. Rustic nose of pepper, heather and wild herbs, vibrant palate of plum-skins, morello cherries and currants with a haunting earthiness and jagged acidity. This one wants food and usually gets it.  Jean-Luc says: “To use new wood, one must have grapes that provide a certain material. Mansois does not do that; Instead, we’ve simply turned our attention to achieving extreme concentration on the vine and in tank, which will ultimately help our wine to age gracefully.”

Domaine du Cros is the largest estate in Marcillac. The classic wine is called “Lo Sang del Pais”, Occitan dialect meaning “the blood of the country”. This wine is the pure representation of the soil, the micro-climate and the grape variety. It is made in the traditional style using tank rather than oak to preserve the intrinsic flavours of the terroir, the place where the vines grow. Healthy purple-red colour, soft berry notes, lovely inky fruits with a touch of mineral and refreshing stalkiness. The Vieilles Vignes (50-90 year old vines) is fermented in tank but aged in foudre before release. Healthy purple-red colour, aromas of raspberries, myrtle and red currants, medium-bodied with sharp cherry flavours underpinned by distinctive mineral notes of iron and slate. Lively finish with refreshing acidity.

The medieval citizens of Rodez used to take Marcillac for their health, because it was preferable to drinking the local water. More recently, Pascal Monestier, the son of a pharmacist in Marcillac, in a thesis on the prevention of cholesterol by the consumption of wine discovered especially high concentrations of cathecine and procyamidol – anti-cholesterol agents. Well, as the bible says, “Take a little wine for thy stomach”!

Laurent Mousset’s Entraygues (from a VDQS up-country from Marcillac) is dominated by Mansois, which confers finesse and vigour with the addition of some Cabernet Franc giving a little weight and mouthfeel to the blend. The vineyards benefit from a southern exposure and plenty of sun which allows ripening of the grapes despite the coolness of the immediate environment.

Delightful red fruit flavours abound amidst the sturdiness of the wine; raspberries and cherries on top of a layer of cool stones and pungent medicinality. You can also taste the iron in the wines.

Throughout the South West wines made from Mansois are consumed with tripe and aligot (mashed potato and cheese) and Aveyron cheeses. Oxtail stew with carrots is also recommended. Confit of duck, wild boar sausages and lamb cutlets should not be neglected. The cheeses of the Aveyron are a natural match, particularly Cantal. After a few years you can drink Mansois happily with white meats (such as pork) or veal with a creamy mushroom sauce.