Grape Variety: Malbec

Colour: Red

One of the traditional “Bordeaux varietals”, Malbec has characteristics that fall somewhere between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A midseason ripener, it can bring very deep colour, ample tannin, and a particular plum-like flavor component to add complexity to claret blends.

Outside Bordeaux it is known as Côt and, in Cahors, also as Auxerrois. There are in fact hundreds of local synonyms, since Malbec at one time was widely planted in nearly every area of France. Sensitivity to frost and proclivity to shatter or coulure are the primary reasons Malbec has become a decreasing factor in most of France. Although plantings in the Medoc have decreased by over two-thirds since the mid-twentieth century, Malbec is now the dominant red varietal in the Cahors area. The Appellation Controlée regulations for Cahors require a minimum content of 70%.

With their Chateau du Cedre wines the Verhaeghes aim for softness, richness and harmony through gentle extraction by long vattings and limited pigeage, malolactic fermentation and sensible use of oak Le Cedre has fabulous colour, almost impenetrably dark with glossy purple tints. With its thick cassis aromas and wild raspberry fruit this is a meal in itself and should be eaten with great reverence and a long spoon.  Jean-Luc Baldes makes wines radically different to Chateau du Cèdre, for the wines are austere and very mineral, requiring several years to soften. The emphasis on terroir is exemplified most purely in the Clos Triguedina which is aged in large old oak casks for twelve to eighteen months. The flavours are fabulous. Black cherry, figs in spirit, menthol, eucalyptus, but most dominant are the smells of dry hay and earl grey tea. One could invade Argentina with these aromas. The wine has the rasping digestibility of terroir. More authentic still is Jean Jouffreau’s Clos de Gamot. The straight Cahors is liquorice on a stick and a terrific peppery grip. The Cuvée Centenaire is made only in exceptional years: it is from one hundred year old vines. Don’t expect to be blown away by power – this wine describes subtlety and understatement. It is just on the mark, with a delicate whiff of rose-petal (interestingly Jouffreau plants roses at the end of each row of vines – it keeps off the mildew apparently) and a gentle palate of soft currant. You can most taste the wisdom of centuries.

Cot is popular in the Loire. Thierry Puzelat makes a wine called In Cot We Trust, an unabashed hymn to the naked varietial, for this is Malbec sauvage, sans filtration and sans sulphur. Bacon fat, marmite and leather, smoked meat – this wine wears its guts for garters. Puzelat has, not unnaturally, been described as the “Pope of unsulphured wine”. Well, we’re glad he believes in the living Cot.

Malbec truly comes into its own in Argentina, where it is one of the major red varietals planted. Much of the Malbec vines there were transplanted from Europe prior to the outbreak of phylloxera and most is therefore ungrafted, planted on their own roots. Sadly, over the years, phylloxera has infested Argentina, too, and vineyards are now being replanted on resistant rootstock.

Argentines often spell it “Malbeck” and make wines from it that similar in flavour to those made in Europe, but with softer, lusher structure, more like New World Merlot. Successful Argentine Malbec growers claim that, in order to develop full maturity and distinction, Malbec needs “hang time” even after sugar levels indicate ripeness. Otherwise, immature Malbec can be very “green” tasting, without its characteristic notes of plum and anise. With hefty alcohol levels, deliberately high extraction and sweetness these wines are more impressive than drinkable. Michel Rolland has done much in an advisory capacity to persuade growers to tone down the power and look for lifted fruit flavours.

Malbec is also planted in Chile, and there’s relatively little and recent acreage in California and Australia. It is usually blended with other red varietals in these countries.