Grape Variety: Lambrusco

Colour: Red

Good Lambrusco is not an oxymoron.

Lambrusco is the name of both a red wine grape and an Italian wine made principally from the grape. The grapes and the wine originate from four zones in Emilia-Romagna and one in Lombardy, principally around the central provinces of Modena, Parma, Reggio nell’Emilia, and Mantua. The grape has a long winemaking history with archaeological evidence indicating that the Etruscans cultivated the vine. In Roman times, the Lambrusco was highly valued for its productivity and high yields with Cato the Elder stating that produce of two thirds of an acre could make enough wine to fill 300 amphoras. None of what the Romans drank has survived, so there’s no telling what it was like. However, in the 1300s, Pier de’ Crescenzi and Andrea Bacci discussed its cultivation, and since then a steady stream of poets have sung its praises.

The most highly-rated of its wines are the frothy, frizzante (slightly sparkling) red wines that are designed to be drunk young from one of the five Lambrusco denominazione di origine controllata (DOC) regions: Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce, Lambrusco Reggiano, and Lambrusco Mantovano.

Taken as a whole, Lambrusco is red wine whose primary characteristics are sparkle, lightness and low alcohol content. Lambrusco’s sparkle is considerably lower key than that of Champagne or Franciacorta: the fizz foams when the wine is poured, then settles down, leaving a faint ring of pink around the edge of the glass. Lambrusco is also characteristically light—not much in the way of tannins or body.

Because it’s delightfully refreshing, with a sparkle-enlivened bouquet that can vary from fruity with pleasant vinous overtones to floral with hints of violets, peonies and heather. On the palate it is zesty, with nice fruit flavours and a clean finish. Since it is relatively acidic, it goes especially well with foods that are oily or contain mayonnaise (grilled sausages, potato salad, etc) and is the most wonderful natural accompaniment to the charcuterie of the region.

The Donati family cultivate 11 ha of vines (7 of which they own as Tenuta S. Andrea and 4 which are leased at Tenuta Bottazza) using organic and biodynamic practices. They are about 20 km away from Parma in the hillside at an altitude of around 250 m with an eastern exposition.  There are a number of diverse strains of the Lambrusco grape family, but the main Lambrusco grape of the Parma zone is Lambrusco Maestri and it is planted on flat plains because of its characteristic resistance to humidity and mildew, and also for its relative abundant fruit. For this reason, the Donati do a severe pruning to produce low yields of better quality.  All the grape are fermented without temperature control, and use no other controls or enhancers at fermentation, no fining, no acidification or de-acidification, no selected yeasts, etc. These are natural frizzante wines deriving from the traditional method of refermentation in bottle, a method that does not require preservatives and which makes this wine, unlike those produced in charmat method, age better. The wines are not filtered and are topped with a crown cap (a traditional closure for some decades in this region). There may be resulting sediment and the bottles should be poured somewhat carefully without a lot of intense movement.

The Lambrusco is a gem, deep purple with attractive pink foam, a nose of peonies and wild strawberries and a palate bursting with tongue-hugging, rough-skinned red fruits. File under frivolous yumminess.