Grape Variety: Gewurztraminer

Colour: White

Gewürztraminer, writes Jancis Robinson, has the dubious dual distinction of being the easier grape variety to spell and the most difficult to spell. It is thought to originate from the village of Tramin (or Termeno) in the Sud Tirol region of northern Italy. The prefix Gewürz means spicy in German, although examples of the wine itself tend not to reveal a spicy quality. Gewürztraminer is instantly identifiable by its perfume – it is musky with suggestions of white and yellow flowers, sometimes violets, lychees and roses. At its worst the smells are cosmetic and confected: Yardley’s lavender talc and tinned fruits spring to mind. These are golden wines (particularly those from Alsace) with a pinkish tinge. Texturally, Gewürz tends to be oily and viscous; high alcohol levels are attained without difficulty with correspondingly low acidity.

In Alsace Gewürztraminer is considered a noble grape and some of the terroir-driven examples give a bit more than primary pleasure. Christophe Scherer makes an exceptional Grand cru vendange tardive example; the aromas are comparatively muted, the wine itself is buttery with hints of smoke and pepper and there is a mineral finish that completes the wine. Holzweg is a single vineyard wine, fleshy without being overbearing.

The aromatic Traminer seems to find its true poise on the slopes of the Dolomites.  The grape prefers hilly terrain in cooler sites which have to be sunny and well-ventilated. The wine from the Cantina Valle Isarco, for example, has a lovely bouquet of dried fruits, nutmeg and sweet spice and is rich and viscous. It will match a wide range of food: from lobster and crayfish to foie gras, gratin dishes and smoked cheese.

Peter Pliger’s stunning Gewürztraminer is vinified dry. Characteristically mineral it has the capacity to age very well.

Despite its low acidity Gewürztraminer seems to complement a variety of different food from pungent cheese dishes, pork rillettes, pates, onion tart and baked red peppers. Its oiliness makes it a balm for spicy food.