Grape Variety: Garnacha Tinto

Colour: Red

Grenache (in Spanish, Garnacha, in Catalan, Garnatxa) is probably the most widely planted variety of red wine grape in the world. It ripens late, so needs hot, dry conditions such as those found in Spain and in the south of France. It is generally spicy, berry-flavoured and soft on the palate with a relatively high alcohol content, but it needs careful control of yields for best results. It tends to lack acid, tannin and colour, and is usually blended with other varieties such as Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvedre. Grenache is the dominant variety in most Southern Rhone wines, especially in Chateauneuf where it is typically over 80% of the blend. In Australia it is typically blended in “GSM” blends with Syrah and Mourvedre. (or as we call it Genetically Syrah Modfied)

Grenache is also used to make rosé wines in France and Spain, notably those of the Tavel district in the Côtes du Rhône. And the high sugar levels of Grenache have led to extensive use in fortified wines, including the red vins doux naturels of Roussillon such as Banyuls and Maury, and as the basis of most Australian ‘port’.

Deftly cultivated and vinified on its own, Grenache offers a cornucopia of dense, lusty aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackcurrant, jam, pepper and liquorice with an explosively mouthfilling texture and deceptively heady alcohol. Also grown in Italy, Tunisia, Australia, California, Greece, Chile and North and South Africa.

Like the Pinot family, Grenache comes in ‘black’, ‘grey’ and ‘white’ versions, plus a mutant with an altered epidermis.

The standard “black Grenache” is known as “Garnatxa Fina” in Catalan, and is the most common version.

.The “hairy Grenache” is also known by names such as Lladoner Pelud The leaves look similar to Macabeo, but with fine little hairs. Recent research in Spain into this bizarre clone indicates that it produces smaller berries with a thicker skin, which suggests a greater potential than the original for making fine wine. This is an active area of investigation.

Grenache Noir was crossed with Petit Bouschet to give Alicante Bouschet, sometimes called Garnacha Tintorera. It was an important grape during Prohibition, as its thick skins survived being transported from Californian vineyards to consumers, who were allowed to make small amounts of wine at home.

In 1961, a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon produced the French wine grape Marselan

Other names for Grenache include Lladoner, Tinto Aragónes, Roussillon Tinto, Uva di Spagna, Alicante, Carignane Rousse, Bois Jaune, Sans Pareil, Rivesaltes and Cannonau.

Beginning our journeuy in the Roussillon Grenache appears in the wines of Olivier Pithon and Marjorie Gallet (Domaine Roc des Anges). Bolstered by Syrah, and, in particular, Carignan sur schist, the grape delivers a ripe mid-palate and plenty of weight. Both these growers manage to “finesse” the grape and make wines where the acidity and minerality drive the flavour. In Fitou and Corbieres, the sweetness is even more apparent, but the warmth of the grape provides the classic garrigue bouquet of wild thyme, rosemary and oregano. Grenache also appears in Minervois in blends with Grenache and Pic Saint Loup (at Domaine de l’Hortus where it is combined in various proportions with Syrah and Mourvedre). It dominates our southern Rhone wines; the old low-yielding bush vines yield wines of extraordinary power and depth of flavour. Domaine La Barrcohe’s Pure, a wine from one hundred year old vines, is pure (natch) Grenache and pays due homage to historical Chateauneuf-du-Pape and its most celebrated grape varietal.  It embodies delicacy, an escape, a synthesis of subtle flavours: strawberries, black cherries, liquorice and a hint of toasty spice. Pure fruit and muscular minerality, beautiful texture and length with supple tannin.  It signifies the perfect balance between kindness and strength and is a testament to the marriage of wonderful old vines and the expression of terroir. Old-fashioned wine making is assuredly sympathetic towards bringing out the garrigue character: ageing the wines in old oak foudres results in a kind of positive oxidation that brings out all the latent aromas of the terroir. Mestre’s Chateauneuf, for example, displays all the usual animal aromas, game-and-gravy, plus olives, tamarinds, oranges and a mahogany smoothness derived from maturity, in other words, a right old roister-doisterer. In an age of homogenous wine and winemaking that seeks to clarify and eliminate funkiness it is a welcome alternative. The Vacqueyras from Domaine La Garrigue, the Beaumes de Venise f Domaine Ferme Saint-Martin and the Gigondas from Clos du Joncuas are also traditionally vinified – they share the common characteristics of hot earth, roasted herbs, marmalized fruits in brandy and powerful animal/leather notes.

Grenache/Garnacha in Spain often provides great value, easy drinking wines. Carbonic maceration and cool temperature fermentations make for sweet strawberry-scented fruiters. The Marques de Aragon (a wine without edges) is a good example and the old vines Garnacha from Bodegas Solar de Urbezo (seasoned with a little Tempranillo and Syrah) is like liquidised blackberries. In Priorat, Terra Alta and Costa Brava the vines are very old indeed and grow high up on poor soils – here the wines resemble their Catalan cousins in Roussillon and even, on occasions, the wines of the Southern Rhone.

Cannonau di Sardegna is none other than Grenache brought to the island by Spanish traders around the beginning of the 14th century.  Yields have been drastically trimmed on this formerly high yielding vine and an attempt has been made to come to terms with the incendiary levels of alcohol.  The neighbouring island of Corsica also has plentiful Grenache vines – here is appears in blends with Nielluccio, Sciacarello and Syrah.

Grenache-based wines take no food prisoners. Logically, they are warm winter wines made to go with meaty game casseroles, venison, beef, oxtail, stuffed shoulder of lamb and wild mushroom stews. The roses are perfect with fish soup, stuffed red peppers, ratatouille and couscous and a range of the Levantine cuisine. The juicier reds are happy to be seen with chargrilled squid, meaty skewers and sausages.