Grape Variety: Dolcetto

Colour: Red

Potted History of Dolcetto

Seven wines made from Dolcetto grapes have received their Denominazione di Origine Controllata recognition. Four types of Dolcetto had been distinguished as long ago as 1924 and the number has since risen to seven. Among them is the Dolcetto d’Asti.

Dolcetto d’Asti is made in the Monferrato, which is without doubt the area in Piedmont where winemaking is most extensively pursued. Within the Monferrato, the production zone, which is bordered by the so-called Langhe Albesi, consists of the territory of 24 communes. In that strip of land, the growers find that Dolcetto is a viable alternative to the cultivation of Barbera. It makes a young wine that is easy to drink and that is adapted to consumption with dishes of moderate structures. It is made only from Dolcetto grapes and, despite its name, it has a dry and bitter flavour.  The first certain citation of the Dolcetto variety is found in the Istruzione, written by Count Nuvolone at the end of the 18th century. The book contains some information about a wine known as “Dosset’’ and about its production area.  Some experts argue that Dolcetto originated in France. But there is greater support for the theory that Dolcetto appeared in the Monferrato around the year 1000.  The variety was soon being grown throughout the entire Monferrato as well as in the western part of Liguria, the Oltrepò Pavese and parts of the districts around Milan and Piacenza.

Highly sensitive to soil and climate conditions, Dolcetto is the earliest of Piedmont’s three primary red varieties to ripen, typically reaching harvest two weeks before Barbera and four before Nebbiolo. In less than optimum conditions, the vine tends to drop fruit before it is fully ripe, and is also susceptible to fungus diseases. The leaves are small and pentagonal, usually with five lobes, and the long, conical bunches support small, deep blue-violet berries of moderate tannin content. The density of their color is such that little skin contact is required during fermentation to yield a highly coloured wine.

The name Dolcetto, “little sweet one,” reflects the intensely fruity character of the grape itself, and the best examples of the wine (which is dry) are dominated by bright, vibrant, jammy flavours with notes of quince and almonds finishing on a slightly bitter note.

Our two examples are quite unlike each other. The Dolcetto d’Alba from Cascina Pellerino (Roero, Piemonte) would happily carry the epithet “the Beaujolais of Piedmont”. A lovely expression of this grape variety, revealing good acidity, unobtrusive tannins and aromatic red fruits, such as cranberry and wild strawberry, and with a pleasant, bitter twist at the end. Excellent with charcuterie or Osso Bucco. The Dolcetto from Vittoria Bera is a different bag of Spannas (geddit?) being a muscular red with plenty of tannins and hearty rusticity. This calls for bean stew with pork sausage or a meat-laden pizza with some spicy green peppers.