Grape Variety: Chardonnay
Colour: White
Chardonnay has dominated the landscape, particularly since the 1980s and, for a time, became a generic term for white wine. It became the grape of favour in the New World – it was a grape that could be manipulated, it was a wine that was difficult to get wrong, it was the canvas upon which the winemakers could paint flavours.
Viewed as a commercial no-brainer its popularity with growers meant that more traditional grape varieties were uprooted. A critical backlash began: Oz Clarke described a view of Chardonnay as “...the ruthless coloniser and destroyer of the world’s vineyards and the world’s palates.”
More trivially Chardonnay’s image began to suffer for a variety of reasons and not just because Bridget Jones’s need for psychological medicine.
Chardonnay is a green-skinned grape variety used to make white wine. It is believed to have originated in the Burgundy, but is now grown wherever wine is produced, from South Shields to Santa Barbara from Navarra to New Zealand. For new and developing wine regions, growing Chardonnay is seen as a rite of passage and an easy segue into the international wine market.
The Chardonnay grape itself is neutral, with many of the flavours commonly associated with the grape being derived from such influences as terroir and oak. It is vinified in many different styles, from the elegant, “flinty” wines of Chablis to rich, buttery Meursaults and New World wines with tropical fruit flavours.
While Chardonnay can adapt to almost all vineyard soils, the three it seems to like most are chalk, clay and limestone, all very prevalent throughout Chardonnay’s traditional “homeland”. The Grand crus of Chablis are planted on hillsides composed of Kimmeridgean marl, limestone and chalk. The outlying regions, falling under the more basic “Petit Chablis” appellation, are planted on portlandian limestone which produces wines with less finesse. Chalk beds are found throughout the Champagne region, and the Côte-d’Or has many areas composed of limestone and clay. In Burgundy, the amount of limestone to which the Chardonnay are vines exposed also seems to have some effect on the resulting wine.
The Montrachets are noted for their high alcohol levels, often above 13%, as well as deep concentration of flavours. The vineyards around Chassagne-Montrachet tend to have a characteristic hazelnut aroma to them while those of Puligny-Montrachet have more steely flavours. Both grand cru and premier cru examples from Corton-Charlemagne have been known to demonstrate marzipan while Meursault wines tend to be the most round and buttery examples. Vineyard location, however, is paramount, some Pulignys resemble Meursaults, and vice versa.
South of the Côte d’Or are the Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais wine regions. The villages of Mercurey, Montagny-lès-Buxy and Rully are the largest producers of Chardonnay in the Côte Chalonnaise with the best made examples rivalling those of the Côte de Beaune. In the Mâconnais, white wine production is centered around the town of Mâcon and the Pouilly-Fuissé region. The full bodied wines of the Pouilly-Fuissé have long held cult wine status with prices that can rival the Grand cru white burgundies. The superb terroir of Macon (around the hill of Solutre, for example) is now recognised and the wines from this region compare favourably in price and quality to any of their more illustrious neighbours.
Chardonnay is the only permitted AOC grape variety in the Chablis region with the wines here developing such worldwide recognition that the name “chablis” has taken on semi-generic connotations to mean any dry white wine, even those not made from Chardonnay. The name is protected in the European Union and for wine sold in the EU, “Chablis” refers only to the Chardonnay wine produced in this region of the Yonne département. The region sits on the outer edges of the Paris Basin. On the other side of the basin is the village of Kimmeridge in England which gives it name to the Kimmeridgean soil that is located throughout Chablis. The French describe this soil as “argilo-calcaire” and is a composition of clay, limestone and fossilized oyster shells. The most expensive examples of Chardonnay from Chablis comes from the seven Grand Cru vineyards that account for around 100 ha on the southwest side of one slope along the Serein river near the town of Chablis—Blanchots, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir. The wines from these crus most often capture the goût de pierre à fusil or “gunflint” quality that is characterized of Chablis wine.
Chardonnay was believed to be first planted in Chablis by the Cistercians at Pontigny Abbey in the 12th century.[Today, the Chardonnay made in the Chablis region is one of the “purest” expression of the varietal character of the grape due to the simplistic style of winemaking favored in this region. Chablis winemakers want to emphasis the terroir of the calcareous soil and cooler climate that help maintain high acidity. The wines rarely will go through malolactic fermentation or be exposed to oak (though its use is increasing). The biting, green apple-like acidity is a trademark of Chablis and can be noticeable in the bouquet. The acidity can mellow with age and Chablis are some of the longest living examples of Chardonnay. Some examples of Chablis can have an earthy “wet stone” flavor that can get mustier as it ages before mellowing into delicate honeyed notes.
To us Burgundy is the home of Chardonnay, and although we have a fair sprinkling of excellent wines, the rest of our list not inundated with Chardonnay. Two superb examples, however, come from Jean-Francois Ganevat who worked with René Monnier in Burgundy. Ganevat vinifies all of his scattered parcels separately respecting the primacy of terroir. The Grands Teppes is from old vines, unfiltered and unsulphured, a wine that will happily age for another ten years. Pale gold, it has a scent of honey, quinces and white flowers. The complexity of the nose continues on the palate with delicate hints of amontillado and a beautiful toasted nuttiness. Cuvée Florine has a more pronounced citrus element and, with less oak influence, is very elegant.
Gerard Tremblay’s unoaked Petit Chablis is uncomplicated but delightfully crisp and refreshing with easy graceful flavours, the olfactory equivalent of smelling soft rain on a spring morning (which is what I do for a living!). The basic Chablis is unoaked from 10-30 year old vines grown on Kimmeridgean marl. This terrain is formed from exoguira virgula (fossilised oyster shells) and the specific gout-à-terroir is said to derive from this. As well as the trademark oyster-shell aromas there is a further ripeness and secondary hints of mushroom, leaf and honey. The acidity bolts all the flavours into position and accentuates the richness and the length of the wine. The forty-year-old vines in the Montmain vineyard contribute to the extra weight in this wine. 30% of the wine is aged in futs de chene. A fine wine with a profound mineral nose, deceptive weight and a lingering finish this would go well with something rich and sweet such as scallops or chicken.
Colette Gros is classic Chablis with a clear light gold colour, glinting with emerald green. In the mouth the wine is dry as apple-parings and steely with perhaps just a delicate hint of violets and mint. Well balanced with lively acidity, the mouth presents notes of hazelnut and biscuits which add a certain charm and length to the finish. If ever a wine smacked of the terroir: the hard white limestone and Kimmeridgean soils, if ever a wine seemed to be a combination of light, stone and water, bright, unyielding and limpid, then Chablis describes that wine. That swathe of acidity will carve through and wash down myriad dishes: from seafood to andouillette chablisienne, snails, curried lamb, fish with sorrel or Comté.
Thibert’s Chardonnays are fruity and mineral at the same time – they have a heart of stone. The Pouilly-Fuissé is a real vin de pierre, dry, stony, taut – ideally it could use three years bottle age, but does mellow considerably with sole or turbot. This serious proposition is from 45-year-old vines with high density planting on limestone marne soil. Vinification and ageing is traditional in foudres (70%), the rest in futs de chene. The wine remains on the lees before bottling. The Non-Filtré (50-year-old vines) is impressive and then some. The aromas suggest cinnamon butter and warm brioche on the nose, the mouth is full with white peaches and comice pears to the fore, while the finish is spicy with a recurrence of the cinnamon notes, hints of vanilla from the oak and a fine citrus acidity to provide balance and definition. Uncompromising wine-making. With these dry round mineral wines you might investigate traditional dishes such as oysters au gratin, andouillette sausage cooked in white wine, blanquette de veau, veal fricassée with chanterelles and goats’ cheese (such as Saint-Marcellin or Bouton de Culotte).
A different sort of purity is evident in Philippe Valette’s wines from Macon and Pouilly. Vinification is natural: without sulphur, without yeasts, chaptalization or acidification. Elevage for the Macon is for twenty-six months on the fine lees in tank (20%) and futs de chene (80%). Ripe apple, honey, lemon and grey mineral all come together in a distinctly mature, winey nose. Clarity of fruit and good acidity show through, with a more lush profile than Chablis but a long, almost crystalline finish. On the nose, fresh citrus, minerally and leesy notes abound, while the palate’s emphatic, zippy, with a generous mealy texture.
The Pouilly-Fuissé is an assembly of several different terroirs: Clos Reyssié, Clos de Mr Noly, Chevrières and Plantes Vieilles. The vines are around 50 years old on limestone-clay. The harvest is in October when the grapes have reached full maturity and elevage is thirty-six months on the fine lees in futs de chene. With lovely intensity of colour the Pouilly bequeaths aromas of white flowers, hazelnuts and grapefruit – in the mouth the wine combines richness, tension and acidity and a sensation of powerful minerality.
Domaine Belleville makes two beautifully eloquent wines. Chapitre is a wine of lovely finesse combined with great texture with aromas of acacia honey and cinnamon bread – try with sea bass or rascasse (pardon my assonance). The Rabourcé with its intense golden colour with flavours of spicy yellow fruits (pineapple and apricots) and secondary sensations of hazelnuts, almonds and violets, is a wine of great personality marked minerality, suggesting definite ageing potential. This structured wine would be a fine partner to lobster, scallops or turbot.
In Saint-Aubin Lamy seeks to make stylish wines that are refined and racy, and underscore St. Aubin’s mineral character. La Princée is bready on the nose with clean, crisp, peach-kernel and lime-fruited aromas emerging. Lovely freshness and cleanness on the palate. En Remilly is a svelte and elegant white wine, with silky minerality. Ripe fruit and stone layer in a millefeuille on the mid-palate. It is both intense and delicate with a terrific finish.
The Genot-Boulanger wines demonstrate the different expressions of Chardonnay from village to village. Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Les Vergers comes from old vines and low yields. It is fermented in futs de chene and aged a further 8-10 months. With its eloquent nose of chestnut purée, pears, quinces and stones and fine, silky, concentrated palate this is a feminine wine as the Burgundians might say and its sweetness would be perfect with crayfish, scallops or goat’s cheese. The Meursault Clos du Cromin exhibits floral aromas also notes of toasted almonds and cashew and a buttery palate with flavours of vanilla, citrus and mineral. This would pair well with foie gras, seafood and tarte tatin. Both the Pulignys from this estate are extremely gratifying. Les Leuvrons, fermented in futs de chene (25% new) and aged for 8-10 months, is a beautifully restrained Puligny, supple and elegant, smoked figs and honey overlaying crisp citrus fruit, long finish. Jambon de Morvan is a delicious partner. And whilst we’re finessing our Burgundies, let’s pay tribute to the Puligny-Folatières which came joint top of a Decanter tasting of the 2000 vintage. The Guide Hachette quotes Saint Bernard’s precept “Donner du temps au temps” to apply to this wine’s longevity. From 40-year-old vines it also experiences fermentation in futs de chene and is aged in wood for12 months. The Folatières possesses “noble” aromas, is racy yet also rich and unctuous. Profoundly complex Burgundy with layers of spice, smoke, toast, honey and tobacco, fine citrus fruits and lingering flavours of cedar and clove, all beautifully harmonised. A wine of this sweetness and mouthrichness would combine eminently with duck terrine, poularde à la crème or quenelles of pike. The pièce de resistance (you know I was going to use that expression) is, naturally, the Genot-Boulanger Corton-Charlemagne from forty-five year old vines grown on limestone clay with marne. This is a true vin de garde (wine for ageing), a wine of great power, complexity and incredible length in the mouth. Lemon-yellow in colour, with a restrained bouquet (vinous suggesting weight and power), impressions of yellow plum, tobacco and lanolin, steely and dry in the mouth slowly revealing flavours of vanilla and dry honey, great length with excellent acidity to carry the flavours. The verve of this wine restores one’s faith in grand cru Burgundy. It does demand something rich. Try foie gras in brioche, lobster, ris de veau or Epoisses and serve in a carafe at cellar temperature.
Ruinart, one of the oldest champagne houses, specialises in Chardonnay. Suave, delicate their Blanc de Blancs describes the word finesse. A blend of 100% Premier Cru Chardonnay from different years it has a very beautiful pale golden yellow colour with beautiful luminosity and striking brilliance. An intense nose with notes of fresh citrus fruit, mainly lime, greets you followed by a very supple, round and harmonious palate. Good vinosity. Notes of nectarine, apricot and cherry-plum dominate a pleasingly long finish. Dom Ruinart Blanc is also100% Grand cru Chardonnay. A fine, fresh and delicate nose with a beautiful intensity. Notes of fresh almonds, toasted brioche, citrus fruits and dried fruits. A beautiful, fine and delicate sensation on the palate. Exotic fruits, mango and passion fruit. A finish suggestive of fresh citrus fruit notes and coffee. A great wine.
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