Naturellement Bon!

Within our shop we have a section dedicated to Natural, Organic and Biodynamic wines - handpicked by ourselves - and here you will find further information regarding the wines we are currently showcasing.

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White Wines

Under £15

Loxarel, “Xarel.Lo” Amphora 2013

A winery that has been farming organically for more than a decade and which also employs some biodynamic treatments, the winery is basic – they don’t waste money on modern technology or fancy architecture.  There are, interestingly, a few amphora in the small barrel cellar, which shows the Mitjan family’s commitment to experimenting with a range of natural wines.  They also keep animals, including chickens, a horse and a donkey named Garnatxa.

Xarel.Lo is fermented using wild yeast, present on the grape skins when they arrive in the winery, in clay amphora without the addition of Sulphur.  The result is a tremendously fresh, elegant and mineral white wine with notes of citrus fruits and herbs.

Domaine Pithon-Paille, Anjou Blanc “Mozaik” 2011

At the beginning of 2008, Jo Pithon and Isabelle Pithon, changed direction from sole wine growers and decided to create a négociant-éleveur business with Joseph Paillé, Isabelle’s son, and Wendy Paillé, his wife, while still retaining 5 hectares of their original estate, notably the famous Les Treilles, for they remain vignerons at heart!  Now in 2013 the estate has grown to 13 hectares.

The idea is to work hand in hand with growers, using predominantly Chenin and Cabernet Franc grapes. A work plan with vine growers have been created as follows:

• Careful selection of the plots, with a preference for organic production.

• Supervision of the vines throughout the year.

• Deciding on the harvest date.

The Anjou “Mozaik” comes from a blend of two complimentary terroirs; slate and limestone.  This is a style of Anjou that expresses the fruit, the freshness and the elegance of Chenin Blanc.  From 20 – 30 year old organically farmed vineyards, the wine is fermented and aged for 10 months in a mixture of 3 – 5 year old barrels and large oak tanks.  The finished wine was bottled in March 2013 with less than two grams per litre of residual sugar.

Davenport Vineyards, Horsmonden Dry White 2013

Will Davenport has been making wines for nearly 20 years, building from a small start-up to a collection of vineyard sites that total 20 acres.  The aim is to make wine of the highest possible quality and which is a true expression of their grape varieties, soil and climate.  Will believes that the best way to achieve this is to interfere as little as possible and let nature take its course.

Made from a blend of six grape varieties (including Bacchus, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Faber and Huxelrebe) grown in the original vineyard plot at Horsmonden in Kent.  This wine has been made every year since 1993 and has won many accolades since then.  It has been likened to a Sauvignon Blanc style and is often mistaken for a New Zealand wine.  It is crisp, aromatic and fruit driven with greengage and grapefruit flavours to the fore with pronounced hedgerow accents.

£15 to £20

Arianna Occhipinti, “SP68” Bianco 2013

The SP68 is the name of the main road that passes near to Arianna’s home town of Vittoria in the far south of Sicily.  It is here that she has been making wine for the past ten years under the tutelage of her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti of the illustrious COS estate.

  All of Arianna’s vineyards are worked using biodynamic principals and the work in the cellar is measured to not push the wine in any way; letting is find its own space.  Natural yeasts, no temperature control, no fining or filtration and minimal sulphur at bottling is the order of the day!

SP68 Bianco comes from a blend of Zibbibo and Albanella.  The nose offers notes of white flowers, pink grapefruit, lychee, fresh oregano, and spice.  It is a deeply aromatic wine that is surprisingly light on the palate despite the slight skin contact which gives a little tannin and an intriguing olive-y note!

Alexandre Bain, Pouilly Fume “Pierre Precieuse” 2012

A tiny 4.9 hectare estate in the north of the Pouilly Fume appellation on South West oriented slopes consisting of Portlandian limestone and Kimmeridgean clay, Domaine Alexandre Bain work tirelessly amongst the vines: pruning, debudding, and leaf thinning.  Pesticides and artificial fertilizers are never used and these methods of working the soil and vines are based on an ecological responsibility and desire to create a wine that offers the maximum of pleasure.  The wine is vinified partly in stainless steel vat and partly in oak barrels and offers a lovely expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape with ripe kiwi fruit and a long, tangy finish.

One of the stars of the show at this year’s Real Wine Fair 2014!

Over £20

Bobar, Chardonnay 2011

Tom and Sally Belford have worked full-time for over 12 years both as viticulturists and winemakers, mainly in the Yarra Valley but also on a fifteen month working tour of France which took them to Champagne, Beaujolais, Provence, Cahors and Sauternes.  The name Bobar is adapted from the French word “bobard”, meaning to tell “tall stories”, or extending the truth.  Tom and Sally say that they find a lot of “bobard” talked in the wine industry, when people try to prop up soulless wines with hyperbole.

The Bobar Chardonnay is a gentle revelation.  Fermented and aged in old barrels with virtually no sulphur it has the purity of a Chablis with that trademark leesy oatmeal, dry honey and cool stone texture and flavour.  Normally, we make an oak canoe out of Oz Chardonnay and paddle it up the nearest billabong, but this is a savoury sipper (glugger) of the highest order!

Paolo Vodopivec, Vitovska Amphora 2010 

We are far in the small, rugged commune of Carso where two enigmatic brothers, Paolo and Valter Vodopivec have earned an enviable international reputation for their distinctive wines.  To discuss the terroir of Carso is to speak more about rock than soil.  Carso, in fact, actually means something like “land of rock” in Celtic.  Valter and Paolo actually had to physically break up the limestone bedrock to plant their vines. The rocky terrain leaves a firm imprint on the wine with an undeniable acid and mineral streak.

For the aficionados of the amber nectar this is reassuringly, shockingly pinkish-orange and cloudy and biffs you on the nose with a mineral-peach-sage-smoke-honey combo that keeps changing with ever sniff and sip; a wine thrilling in its richness and striking in its textural complexity.

Rose Wines

£10 - £15

Domaine du Moulin, Cour-Cheverny Rose 2013

Domaine du Moulin is an estate of 25 hectares (17 of which are planted) located in Cour-Cheverny. It has passed from father to son from the installation of Hervé’s grandfather in 1939, Hervé took over the estate in 1995, after studying viticulture and winemaking. In the late 90’s Hervé met Thierry Puzelat (who was then in his second year of organic viticulture) and tasted his wines as well as Marcel Lapierre’s Morgons and was struck by their purity. He decided to turn a couple of hectares organic just to check: no synthetic products, but ploughing and hand harvest instead, and also no-or very-little sulphur. The results proved to him that he should travel the non-interventionist path.

The Rose is 60% Gamay and 40% Pinot Noir hand-picked from low yielding, biodynamically farmed vines aged between 12 and 36 years and has amazing purity and freshness; delicious red fruits providing perfect balance.


Red Wines

Under £10

Valli Unite, “Ottavio Rube” Rosso 2013 

The co-operative was born over thirty years ago at a time in which increasing numbers of people had moved to the cities for factory work.  Three young men from local farming families got together to discuss the future of farming in the area.  To begin with their vineyards were merged and they built stalls for farm animals so that organic manure could be used to fertilise the fields and vines.  This very modern belief in organic farming as the way of the future formed part of the wider project known as ‘contraction’, with the aim of reducing the human impact on the natural environment.

Viticulture here is non-invasive.  Old fashioned sickles are used to hoe the weeds, the vines are fertilised with manures from their cattle as well as green fertilisers composed of clover and weeds.  Cement vats are used to ferment the wines which are then transferred to old barrels to soften and mature. A blend of Dolcetto (80%) and Croatina (20%), in the glass the wine is an intense ruby red, with a vinous aroma, a dry, pleasantly bitter taste in which there are hints of roses and in which the fruitiness is successfully wedded to the tang of tannin.

£10 to £20

Laurent Cazottes, “Champetre” Braucol Rouge 2013

Laurent Cazottes, artisan distiller extra-ordinaire, who furnishes us with a variety of incredible eaux-de-vies, liqueurs and aperitifs, also makes a pair of wines from indigenous Gaillacoise grape varieties.

The red is from organically grown, naturally fermented Braucol grapes and is bursting with bright, sapid red fruits. Sheer delight!

Domaine Gramenon, Cotes du Rhone “La Sagesse” 2011

These are wines that we have long admired deeply for their purity.  Located not far from the village of Vinsobres Michèle Laurent makes some of the most beautiful and compelling Rhône wines. Made with gloriously ripe fruit and bottled by hand without fining or filtration, many of the cuvées are also bottled without the addition of any sulphur in order to keep the yeasts and microflora alive. This is non-interventionist, minimalist wine-making par excellence. Not only are the vines old (there is one parcel of 100-year-old Grenache), but the traditional cellars contain no high-tech equipment with the wine descending by means of gravity to the tanks (to use a pump apparently “stresses the yeasts”) and the ageing of all the cuvées of red wines is in old cask and demi-muids.

La Sagesse is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah, an expansive, intensely fragrant Côtes-du-Rhône with a chewy texture and a medicinal flavour.

These are living, mutable wines constantly confounding expectation; sometimes shy, austere, fugitive, sometimes lush, floral and bold.

Les Cailloux du Paradis (Etienne Courtois), “Racines” Rouge 2011 

Claude Courtois has created a small farm which exemplifies what biodynamics is all about in terms of biodiversity and self-sufficiency.  Recently, he has handed the reins to one of his sons, Etienne, and just kept a couple of hectares for himself. Together they farm a balanced & completely chemical-free 13 hectares of vines in the heart of the Sologne. Courtois also grows organic wheat, which he feeds to his cows who provide the manure for the vines. “Nothing comes into my vineyard,” he says, meaning no chemicals ever. He has created a well-balanced, bio-diversity with trees, fruit trees, vines, woods & fields. No pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, chemical fertilizers, or synthetic chemicals of any kind are allowed on the vines or in the soil of the vineyards. He has his own methods for promoting the diverse life of the soil. The grapes – Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Côt (Malbec), Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc & Pineau d’ Aunis and maybe up to a further forty varieties (ye dare not ask)—are harvested by hand and only indigenous yeasts are used during fermentation. Claude regards the soil on his farm as a living organism. He lives in harmony with nature & the wines he crafts are a pure and vibrantly alive testament to outstanding biodynamic winemaking.

Roots by name and by nature Racines is from hand-harvested, destemmed and gently pressed grapes (Cabernet Franc, Côt & Cabernet Sauvignon from 20 hl/ha). Only natural yeasts are used and the juice undergoes an extended maceration. Vinified in barrel and then aged for 18 months in oak. Deep purple in the glass the nose is redolent with pounded stones, plum, cherries, warm iron and damp chalk. The palate has great depth of dried currant, fig and plum hewn to a deep mineral bed. The wine has lovely acidity, a terrific structure and finishes with red berry fruit and mineral zest. Such vitality as if the roots referred to had sucked the life blood from the very soil.

Bernabe Navarro, “La Amistad” 2013

These are pure, minimal intervention wines at the forefront of Spain’s slow move towards more elegant, terroir driven styles.  Bernabe Navarro is based in Alicante, South East Spain, where the climate is hot, humid and Mediterranean near the coast but becoming drier and more continental further inland.

The vines, from a 1.14 hectare limestone and broken granite vineyard, are 50 – 60 years old dry-grown bush vines grown at altitude.  Viticulture is always organic and grapes are hand harvested.  In the winery they use 80% de-stemmed grapes.  After a 10 hour maceration, the free run juice is transferred to 1700ltr French oak casks where it is fermented for 25 days on the wild yeasts.  There is minimal addition of SO2, no enzymes, no fining and no filtration.  The colour is cherry red, the nose is fresh and approachable with ripe red fruits, with some floral and herbal touches.  A fresh, lively, fruity red that is very drinkable with a lovely mineral finish.

Louis-Antoine Luyt, Carignan “Trequilemu” 2012 

Louis-Antoine was born in Burgundy and went to Chile in 1998 to work as a somellier.  Realising he wanted to make wine he returned to France, enrolled in a wine course and there met Mathieu Lapierre (son of the famous Marcel) and since then has worked every harvest in the Lapierre winery and assisted at their joint project with Jean Claude Chanudet, Chateau Cambon.  In 2006 Louis-Antoine returned to Chile, purchased a vineyard in Cauquenes on marly-granite soils (with some vines over 200 years old), which he works with a horse.  The wines themselves are fermented with natural yeasts and are neither fined nor filtered.

The Carignan is pure and grippy with notes of undergrowth.

Over £20

Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir 2012

This is the culmination of much hard work at this farm in Cromwell, Central Otago.  The eleven hectare vineyard is composed predominantly of Pinot Noir, with a diversity of ten of the best quality clones and rootstocks to suit each particular soil combination within the site.  Along with Pinot Noir, a tiny pocket each of Riesling and Gruner Veltliner is planted.

The Soils in the vineyard are derivative of broken down schist and granite.  They are classified as free-draining sandy loams.  In the lower elevations the soils are slightly heavier, producing rich, flamboyant wines of real depth.  On the steeper slopes the soils contain much more rock and gravel, producing wines of great minerality, finesse, concentration and structure.

Fruit is sorted twice in the winery for the highest possible quality.  Each wine is fermented using ‘wild’ yeasts in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, or very traditional open top Rousseau oak fermenters.  Malo-Lactic fermentation occurs naturally in the temperature and humidity controlled barrel room and in most years the wines are not filtered or fined.

This is a dense, chewy and complex bottling which is made in an age-worthy style.  The tannins are well integrated on the palate but substantial enough that the wine is only hinting at what we expect it to become.  The acidity is bright and 100% natural lending both liveliness and authority to the long finish on the wine.

Posted by Virginie on 14-Nov-2014. Permalink
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