Naturellement Bon!

Within our shop we have a section dedicated to Natural, Organic and Biodynamic wines - handpicked by ourselves - and here you will find further information regarding the wines we are currently showcasing.

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White Wines

Under £15

Loxarel, “Xarel.Lo” Amphora 2014

A winery that has been farming organically for more than a decade and which also employs some biodynamic treatments, the winery is basic – they don’t waste money on modern technology or fancy architecture.  There are, interestingly, a few amphora in the small barrel cellar, which shows the Mitjan family’s commitment to experimenting with a range of natural wines.  They also keep animals, including chickens, a horse and a donkey named Garnatxa.

Xarel.Lo is fermented using wild yeast, present on the grape skins when they arrive in the winery, in clay amphora without the addition of Sulphur.  The result is a tremendously fresh, elegant and mineral white wine with notes of citrus fruits and herbs.

Domaine de la Senechaliere, Melon de Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes “Miss Terre” 2013

The domaine comprises approximately 13 hectares of vines, mostly Melon de Bourgogne although in recent years Marc has also been working with Abouriou (q.v. Elian da Ros and Marmandais). The soils are comprised mainly of schist and many of the vines well over 50 years of age; for Miss Terre the vines are up to 80 years old. He works organically, working the soil and opting for essential oils and copper treatments over synthetic products. This ‘natural’ feel continues into the cellar where he uses a minimal amount of sulphur, with a single addition of about 20 mg only at the time of bottling.

What distinguishes the Miss Terre from the rest of his portfolio, however, is malolactic fermentation; not a process generally associated with Muscadet. As a consequence the wine has lower acidity than we might expect from Melon, as indicated on the label where Marc has written “Ce vin est sec, mais pas acide”. The wine is initially muted on the nose, but it soon opens out to reveal some delightfully well-defined and grippy fruit characteristics with scents of pear and citrus pith alongside elements of white pepper and a very faint seam of bright, perfumed almond. The palate is quite exhilarating, with a deep texture, sherbet minerality and a rich, flavoursome mouth-feel. Underneath it all there is moderate acidity in keeping with the malolactic, and it is the bite of the mineral component that contributes most to the structure of the wine. The fruit has a savoury vein, and the wine a bright, vibrant, pithy finish, with an appealing bitterness to the fruit.

Alice & Olivier De Moor, Bourgogne Aligote 2013

Alice and Olivier De Moor have been making wine since 1994 in the village of Courgis, 7km to the South West of Chablis on the edge of the Chablis appelation.  Their small vineyard holdings are spread across various sites with a total of just 7 hectares of organic farmed vines.  All of the wines are fermented entirely with indigenous yeast and handled with the minimal of intervention in the winery, allowing the wines to “find themselves”.  We receive one allocation each year from Alice & Olivier of wines that are incredibly revered the world over, and which never fail to sell out very quickly.

The Bourgogne Aligote comes from a 1.3 hectare parcel of 19 year old Aligote vines in Chitry-le-Fort.  The alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place half in tank and half in barrel with only indigenous yeast, and no synthetic enzymes at any stage.  The wine is then aged around a year in the same tanks and barrels without racking, fining, filtration or cold stabalisation. 

This is incredibly mineral Aligote with aromas of river stones, flint and a citrus backbone.  With exposure to the air, and a little time to warm in the glass, the wine opens up to reveal notes of honey.  The incredible bolt of acidity on the palate, a characteristic of the wines of the village of Chitry, provides freshness and harmonious balance to the abundance of flavour, texture and depth.  An outstanding example of Bourgogne Aligote.

Domaine Le Briseau, Pineau d’Aunis “Lucky” 2010

Christian Chaussard studied and then taught viticulture and oenology whilst running a small estate in Vouvray. For financial reasons he had to give the latter up, but soon decided that he wanted to practise vine-growing and winemaking. Before accomplishing that goal, he met Nathalie Gaubicher, a Swiss actress with an oenologist and sommelier diploma, and they set out to find vines somewhere in France. In 2002, they settled in the Jasnières/Coteaux-du-Loir area in northern Touraine. The entirety of Jasnières covers eighty hectares of vines, and Coteaux-du-Loir about two hundred hectares. The soils are largely all clay and silica over a subsoil of limestone, and Domaine le Briseau was started with four hectares of vines planted mainly with Chenin Blanc and Pineau d’Aunis. In 2007, the estate had grown to eleven hectares. All vineyard work is done according to the principles of organic viticulture (with the certification of Qualité France): no pesticides, insecticides or chemical fertilizers are used; nettle and horsetail decoctions are sprayed on the foliage; copper is used in modest quantity (less than 5kg/ha); the vines are ploughed and grass allowed to grow between the rows. In 2006, the estate started its conversion to biodynamic principles.

Coteaux du Loir means Pineau d’Aunis, a grape as delicious as it is unknown. Their wines have a wonderful way of being carefree, yet beautifully made. A cornucopia of red fruit notes – wild strawberry, raspberry and thimbleberry with a hint of rose geranium, are graced with the characteristic spice of Pineau d’Aunis, revealed as a dusting of black pepper. Lovely just for sipping.

£15 to £20

Arianna Occhipinti, “SP68” Bianco 2013

The SP68 is the name of the main road that passes near to Arianna’s home town of Vittoria in the far south of Sicily.  It is here that she has been making wine for the past ten years under the tutelage of her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti of the illustrious COS estate.

  All of Arianna’s vineyards are worked using biodynamic principals and the work in the cellar is measured to not push the wine in any way; letting is find its own space.  Natural yeasts, no temperature control, no fining or filtration and minimal sulphur at bottling is the order of the day!

SP68 Bianco comes from a blend of Zibbibo and Albanella.  The nose offers notes of white flowers, pink grapefruit, lychee, fresh oregano, and spice.  It is a deeply aromatic wine that is surprisingly light on the palate despite the slight skin contact which gives a little tannin and an intriguing olive-y note!

Over £20

Bobar, Chardonnay 2011

Tom and Sally Belford have worked full-time for over 12 years both as viticulturists and winemakers, mainly in the Yarra Valley but also on a fifteen month working tour of France which took them to Champagne, Beaujolais, Provence, Cahors and Sauternes.  The name Bobar is adapted from the French word “bobard”, meaning to tell “tall stories”, or extending the truth.  Tom and Sally say that they find a lot of “bobard” talked in the wine industry, when people try to prop up soulless wines with hyperbole.

The Bobar Chardonnay is a gentle revelation.  Fermented and aged in old barrels with virtually no sulphur it has the purity of a Chablis with that trademark leesy oatmeal, dry honey and cool stone texture and flavour.  Normally, we make an oak canoe out of Oz Chardonnay and paddle it up the nearest billabong, but this is a savoury sipper (glugger) of the highest order!

Paolo Vodopivec, Vitovska Amphora 2010 

We are far in the small, rugged commune of Carso where two enigmatic brothers, Paolo and Valter Vodopivec have earned an enviable international reputation for their distinctive wines.  To discuss the terroir of Carso is to speak more about rock than soil.  Carso, in fact, actually means something like “land of rock” in Celtic.  Valter and Paolo actually had to physically break up the limestone bedrock to plant their vines. The rocky terrain leaves a firm imprint on the wine with an undeniable acid and mineral streak.

For the aficionados of the amber nectar this is reassuringly, shockingly pinkish-orange and cloudy and biffs you on the nose with a mineral-peach-sage-smoke-honey combo that keeps changing with ever sniff and sip; a wine thrilling in its richness and striking in its textural complexity.

Rose Wines

£10 - £15

Domaine du Moulin, Cheverny Rose 2013

Domaine du Moulin is an estate of 25 hectares (17 of which are planted) located in Cour-Cheverny. It has passed from father to son from the installation of Hervé’s grandfather in 1939, Hervé took over the estate in 1995, after studying viticulture and winemaking. In the late 90’s Hervé met Thierry Puzelat (who was then in his second year of organic viticulture) and tasted his wines as well as Marcel Lapierre’s Morgons and was struck by their purity. He decided to turn a couple of hectares organic just to check: no synthetic products, but ploughing and hand harvest instead, and also no-or very-little sulphur. The results proved to him that he should travel the non-interventionist path.

The Rose is 60% Gamay and 40% Pinot Noir hand-picked from low yielding, biodynamically farmed vines aged between 12 and 36 years and has amazing purity and freshness; delicious red fruits providing perfect balance.


Red Wines

Under £10

Valli Unite, “Ottavio Rube” Rosso 2013 

The co-operative was born over thirty years ago at a time in which increasing numbers of people had moved to the cities for factory work.  Three young men from local farming families got together to discuss the future of farming in the area.  To begin with their vineyards were merged and they built stalls for farm animals so that organic manure could be used to fertilise the fields and vines.  This very modern belief in organic farming as the way of the future formed part of the wider project known as ‘contraction’, with the aim of reducing the human impact on the natural environment.

Viticulture here is non-invasive.  Old fashioned sickles are used to hoe the weeds, the vines are fertilised with manures from their cattle as well as green fertilisers composed of clover and weeds.  Cement vats are used to ferment the wines which are then transferred to old barrels to soften and mature. A blend of Dolcetto (80%) and Croatina (20%), in the glass the wine is an intense ruby red, with a vinous aroma, a dry, pleasantly bitter taste in which there are hints of roses and in which the fruitiness is successfully wedded to the tang of tannin.

Radford Dale Winery, Thirst! Gamay 2014 

This unconventional Gamay is grown in the warm region of Wellington. The old vines from which the fruit for this wine is harvested grow in deep alluvial soils and have never been irrigated. Planted on the lower slopes of the Eastern bank of the Berg River with a West facing aspect, the grapes ripen in the warm conditions of the region. Low, single wire trellising and the sprawling growth pattern of the variety mean that grapes are carried within the canopy, which shelters the thin skinned bunches from too much direct sunlight, thus conserving natural acidity and freshness. Yields are small, as can be expected from a vineyard of this age.

From the vibrant, pink hue with purple tinge on the rim to the soft, yet striking strawberry and cranberry aromas of the nose, this wine refuses to be defined by the rules of modern conventional winemaking. The palate shows a range of red fruits and a touch of tomato leaf, before a bracing acidity brings the wine to a long, clean finish. Light, supple tannins provide texture and a lift in the finish which refreshes and rewards at the same time.

£10 to £20

Laurent Cazottes, “Champetre” Braucol Rouge 2013

Laurent Cazottes, artisan distiller extra-ordinaire, who furnishes us with a variety of incredible eaux-de-vies, liqueurs and aperitifs, also makes a pair of wines from indigenous Gaillacoise grape varieties.

The red is from organically grown, naturally fermented Braucol grapes and is bursting with bright, sapid red fruits. Sheer delight!

Domaine Gramenon, Cotes du Rhone “La Sagesse” 2011

These are wines that we have long admired deeply for their purity.  Located not far from the village of Vinsobres Michèle Laurent makes some of the most beautiful and compelling Rhône wines. Made with gloriously ripe fruit and bottled by hand without fining or filtration, many of the cuvées are also bottled without the addition of any sulphur in order to keep the yeasts and microflora alive. This is non-interventionist, minimalist wine-making par excellence. Not only are the vines old (there is one parcel of 100-year-old Grenache), but the traditional cellars contain no high-tech equipment with the wine descending by means of gravity to the tanks (to use a pump apparently “stresses the yeasts”) and the ageing of all the cuvées of red wines is in old cask and demi-muids.

La Sagesse is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah, an expansive, intensely fragrant Côtes-du-Rhône with a chewy texture and a medicinal flavour.

These are living, mutable wines constantly confounding expectation; sometimes shy, austere, fugitive, sometimes lush, floral and bold.

Bernabe Navarro, “La Amistad” 2013

These are pure, minimal intervention wines at the forefront of Spain’s slow move towards more elegant, terroir driven styles.  Bernabe Navarro is based in Alicante, South East Spain, where the climate is hot, humid and Mediterranean near the coast but becoming drier and more continental further inland.

The vines, from a 1.14 hectare limestone and broken granite vineyard, are 50 – 60 years old dry-grown bush vines grown at altitude.  Viticulture is always organic and grapes are hand harvested.  In the winery they use 80% de-stemmed grapes.  After a 10 hour maceration, the free run juice is transferred to 1700ltr French oak casks where it is fermented for 25 days on the wild yeasts.  There is minimal addition of SO2, no enzymes, no fining and no filtration.  The colour is cherry red, the nose is fresh and approachable with ripe red fruits, with some floral and herbal touches.  A fresh, lively, fruity red that is very drinkable with a lovely mineral finish.

Louis-Antoine Luyt, Carignan “Trequilemu” 2012 

Louis-Antoine was born in Burgundy and went to Chile in 1998 to work as a somellier.  Realising he wanted to make wine he returned to France, enrolled in a wine course and there met Mathieu Lapierre (son of the famous Marcel) and since then has worked every harvest in the Lapierre winery and assisted at their joint project with Jean Claude Chanudet, Chateau Cambon.  In 2006 Louis-Antoine returned to Chile, purchased a vineyard in Cauquenes on marly-granite soils (with some vines over 200 years old), which he works with a horse.  The wines themselves are fermented with natural yeasts and are neither fined nor filtered.

The Carignan is pure and grippy with notes of undergrowth.

Over £20

Burn Cottage, Pinot Noir 2012

This is the culmination of much hard work at this farm in Cromwell, Central Otago.  The eleven hectare vineyard is composed predominantly of Pinot Noir, with a diversity of ten of the best quality clones and rootstocks to suit each particular soil combination within the site.  Along with Pinot Noir, a tiny pocket each of Riesling and Gruner Veltliner is planted.

The Soils in the vineyard are derivative of broken down schist and granite.  They are classified as free-draining sandy loams.  In the lower elevations the soils are slightly heavier, producing rich, flamboyant wines of real depth.  On the steeper slopes the soils contain much more rock and gravel, producing wines of great minerality, finesse, concentration and structure.

Fruit is sorted twice in the winery for the highest possible quality.  Each wine is fermented using ‘wild’ yeasts in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, or very traditional open top Rousseau oak fermenters.  Malo-Lactic fermentation occurs naturally in the temperature and humidity controlled barrel room and in most years the wines are not filtered or fined.

This is a dense, chewy and complex bottling which is made in an age-worthy style.  The tannins are well integrated on the palate but substantial enough that the wine is only hinting at what we expect it to become.  The acidity is bright and 100% natural lending both liveliness and authority to the long finish on the wine.

Posted by Virginie on 04-Mar-2015. Permalink
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