Two wines from Philippe Bornard
2009 Arbois Pupillin, Philippe Bornard
2007 Ivresse de Noe, Philippe Bornard
Baldrick: “I have ... a cunning plan. It’s as cunning as a fox who’s just been appointed Professor of Cunning at Oxford University
Philippe Bornard is based in the world capital of Ploussard, otherwise known as Pupillin, and is a good friend and neighbour of Emmanuel Houillon. He makes wines in same very natural vein, unfiltered, unfined and with no added sulphur.
Point Barre is Ploussard and that’s the end of the argument (a very rough translation of the French colloquialism). Or all wine and no bull. Your first hint that something interesting is going on is the nose of the wine; notes of spicy strawberries and spiced apples tease your nostrils. The body is medium to full with a delicious midpalate of acidity that pricks your senses. The core of the wine has an earthy, barnyard character, but one that is wrapped in fruity, pink grapefruit and a candied cherry and pomegranate finish. It’s delicious and startling, and balances a tightrope between earth and fruit.
Ivresse de Noe is a late harvest Savagnin. How to describe it? It’s a non-oxidative style, not quite sweet, not quite dry, which manages to be both ethereal and have a heck of a lot of vinosity. This bronze-coloured wine has a nose reminiscent of apricot nectar and roast figs with an undertone of smokiness, the palate is ripe and honeyed with warm fleshy fruits before the Savagnin nuttiness takes over with flavours of roasted cumin seed, typical nuttiness and plenty of acidity. The Ivresse went perfectly with a creamy crab risotto.