Two gems from curry night chez moi - Dard Crozes & Buisson Pouilleux

Sauvignon Buisson Pouilleux, Thierry Puzelat

Le Buisson Pouilleux means “lousy (as in flea-ridden) bush,” an appropriate name for crazy old-vine, mutant, magical Sauvignon Blanc, so ripe it turns into an image of abundant floral extract dipped in honey and grapefruit marmalade.

Poured from magnum the wine had a mid amber colour that hinted at skin contact. The nose developed from an initial display of primary fruit to reveal some deep, nutty tones. A playful palette (sic) of apples, figs and green plums interspersed with fennel and herbs and finishing on aromas of dry honey and earth. The wine picks up spice from the lees and has a waxy/warm butter quality suggestive of malolactic fermentation and is additionally mellowed by its passage in old barrels.

Amazing depth that one does not associate with up-and-down Sauvignon.

I can almost hear the M & S soothing tones: “This is not Sauvignon. This is Buisson Pouilleux – a lousy wine that’s anything but.

Crozes-Hermitage “C’est le Printemps”, Dard et Ribo

Oh joy. This was a beauty to sing for your supper, a Crozes of energetic brilliance. It is a bare foot, ragamuffin wine bursting with simple genius. Close your eyes and surrender to the aromas of violets, purplest of purple berry fruit oozing from all directions, the wafts of hickory smoke and the whole lovely compote seasoned with delicate herbs and spices. Where’s a Gerard Manley Hopkins killer description when you need one? Here it is:

A lush-kept plush-capped sloe
Will, mouthed to flesh-burst,
Gush! — flush the man, the being with it, sour or sweet,
Brim, in a flash, full!

Bring me lamb.