Touvien, Cantina di Barro

2008 Touvien, Cantina di Barro

There is a scene in Moe’s Tavern in which the insensibly drunk Barney is giving his considered opinion on various ludicrous ideas that Moe is throwing around for a change of image for his drinking den. Barney’s invariable response (from underneath the pool table) is “I like it!!” This evening I have been (mostly) drinking a Valle d’Aostan red that is ridiculously delicious and I like it. I use the d word a lot, and this was avowedly a d-day, but it was merited for the Touvien is liquid cherry clafoutis, effortlessly fresh, tangy, and engagingly rasping with bitter red fruits: cherries, cranberries and pomegranate. For a wine that includes the kitchen sink blend of indigenous varieties it encapsulates simplicity. Think Gamay with a heart of stone-fruit.

The word Touvien is taken from their local French dialect. In French “tout” means everything and the verb “venir” meaning to come is conjugated as je viens (I come) tu viens (you come)....etc the imperative of come is “viens”. Hence “Touvien” is everything that comes (ie grows) in the vineyard. The grape varieties are Petit Rouge, Cornalin, Fumin, Mayolet, Pr’metta, Vien De Nus et Villermen. Everything is destalked followed by a long maceration / fermentation period of in between 20 to 30 days according to the vintage. Indigenous yeast, no oak, classic use of sulphur (a little bit at harvest and at various stages during elevage) but restrained.

Everything comes together in this wine. And I like it!