The Quality of Champagne Philipponnat

TASTING OF PHILIPPONNAT WITH VIANNEY GRAVEREAUX AT BEDALES

With so many champagnes it is a case of the emperor’s new bubbles, wherein more money seems to be poured into marketing flim-flam than the quality of product itself. It may sound trite but there is a cultural conservatism which not only allows, but actively conspires with the con tricks that go under the name of brand recognition. And whilst the marques cash in on extra demand by releasing inferior wines, houses like Philipponnat make the extra effort by using premier division fruit and striving to make balanced, tasty wines…

Philipponnat is not a big champagne house. They produce 600,000 bottles - which may sound a lot, but is a fraction of the big brands and well-known marques and even less than exalted luxury cuvees such as Krug.

The history of the family in the region dates back to 1522 when the Philipponnats were local vineyard owners, merchants and wine makers. During the 19th century the family introduced its own house label and moved to Mareuil-sur-Ay, replanted the historic Clos des Goisses vineyard (which is now the oldest single vineyard in Champagne) and reinstated the cellars of the Chateau de Mareuil.

All the wines have a certain style that is very distinctive helped by a relatively low dosage that allows the innate minerality to express itself. You immediately notice the incisive acidity and the penetrating whiff of chalk and lime that seem to act as steely struts to the main body of the wine. Furthermore, malolactic is avoided for all wines that are aged in barrel. Philipponnat’s aim, according to Vianney, is to make a wine that will refresh the palate and provoke you to drink another glass… and another. The problem with so many champagnes is that the high level of dosage leaves a cloying taste in the mouth.

As with other houses in champagne Philipponnat uses the main three grapes in varying degrees, but specialises in Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir gives intensity, strength and structure while Chardonnay confers a floral element, also acidity and elegance and Pinot Meunier provides fruit and mouthfeel.

Philipponnat owns twenty hectares of vines on south-facing slopes most of which are on pure chalk soils, in the areas around Mareuil, Ay, Mutigny and Avenay. Vinification is natural – the aim is to create a style balanced between intensity and freshness. Intensity is a recurrent theme – it refers to the quality provided by the Pinot Noir grapes in the blend – especially those grown on the warm, south-facing slopes of the Montagne de Reims. Freshness comes from the Chardonnay and the vinification of first press juice as well as very moderate dosage which preserves the inherent aromas and mineral character of the grapes.

The back label on each bottle declares the vintage from which the majority of the wine came, the date of disgorgement - and the dosage. Effectively, the wines have two birthdays – the year of vintage and the year of disgorgement. On release the wines taste fresh and vibrant, yet with the added concentration of lees ageing. The Royale Reserve and the Reserve Rosée see the addition of reserve wine which is aged in a “solera system” (almost unique in champagne). The amount of reserve wine varies according to vintage: in normal vintages it varies between 17-21%; in 2003, however, it comprised 50% of the final blend.

A significant proportion of the vintage wines and Clos des Goisses are vinified in small oak barrels to increase complexity to. As mentioned wines fermented in the barrel do not undergo malolactic fermentation in order enhance the perception of freshness.

Royale Réserve

Philipponnat’s baby cuvée comes from first press juice from predominantly premier and grand cru vineyards.  The blend is 40-50% Pinot Noir from Philipponnat’s own vineyards in Ay and Mareuil, whilst the Chardonnay (30-35%) and Pinot Meunier (15-25%) come from vineyards near Mareuil-sur-Ay. Traditional vinification in vat; reserve wines are aged in barrel. Moderate dosage (8/9g/l).

Aged on the lees for three years the Royale Réserve is lemony gold in colour with fine, lively bubbles and a nose reminiscent of vine blossom, linden and yeast.  After a period in the glass the wine develops citrus fruits and becomes quite vinous with berry fruit flavours and a flinty finish.

Réserve Rosée

Made in a similar fashion to the Royale Reserve, this pink champagne combines intensity, freshness and elegance. It is dry but fruity with red cherry and wild strawberry flavours and candied mandarin orange aromas.

About 50-60% of the blend is Pinot Noir approximately 8% of which is vinified as a red wine. The reserve wines account for 25-40% of the blend and are the product of the solera system of fractional blending.

Grand Blanc 1999

Pure Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs and mainly Cuis, Cramant, Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertu (70%), Clos des Goisses vineyard in Mareuil and Trépail on the Montagne de Reims. 

This gorgeous wine has a low brut dosage (5-6 g/l) and a minimum of five years on the lees before disgorgement.

Very attractive nose with a nice development.  The palate is vinous and suggestive of a creamy texture – buttery and toasty with patisserie nuances, but maintaining an elegant balance between power and finesse and beautiful vibrancy.

This would pair well with shellfish and crustacea – prawns, shellfish, lobster or poached fish with a beurre blanc sauce.

Reserve Millesimée 1999

Made from 70% Pinot Noir mainly from Ay and Mareuil-sur-Ay and 30% Chardonnay from the Cote des Blancs, the Millésimée materialises the specific qualities of the particular vintage. Though vinous and powerful (and eminently foodworthy) it is elegant and fresh at the same time – a remarkable combination.

Malolactic is avoided for the most powerful wines, notably those fermented in barrel. The dosage is on the low side of brut – about 6g/l. The wine matures from five to nine years in the bottle to obtain the greatest degree of complexity and to develop secondary and tertiary aromatics.

Golden-hued wine with delicate effervescence, the nose is initially redolent of honey and beeswax becoming progressively more reminiscent of dried fruit and fig. The palate is full and vinous without being too heavy; the finish is characterised by delicate but persistent smoky and leathery aromas, typical of great Pinot Noir when aged.

Pinot goes with poultry and game birds; I think this would be excellent with salmon and a beurre blanc sauce.

Cuvée 1522 Grand Cru 2000

Philipponnat created 1522 to commemorate the year the family settled in the heart of the champagne country. This wine is a real favourite, enticingly vibrant with delicious subtlety; stylistically it is quite different to the more powerful and more strikingly mineral Clos des Goisses.

It is made from the very best first press juice comprising 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay sourced exclusively from the vineyards in Ay, Cramant and Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger. A proportion of the wine (50%) is fermented in barrels. The wine is perfect for low dosage which is why Philipponnat have used an extra brut dosage (4.5g sugar/litre). The wine matures for 5-7 years on the fine second fermentation lees before disgorgement.

Pale gold in colour, almost luminescent with lively, rapid bubbles the 1522 has an enchanting floral nose with notes of hawthorn and acacia blossom and more veiled plum and ripe grape aromas, combined with hints of fresh figs. The palate is supremely fresh and exquisitely clean, yet well-structured, with great balance and reminiscent of ripe white peaches. Fruity and silky it continues providing fig and almond aromas and completes with a striking lemony finish and a flicker of iodine.

Wonderfully refreshing, fragrant, graceful and uplifting wine – a champagne to love,

Clos des Goisses 1999

Wholly owned by Philipponnat Clos des Goisses is a unique walled vineyard covering 5.5 hectares on a due south-facing 30-45% slope, situated on a canal in Mareuil-sur-Ay. The soils are relatively shallow and the subsoil is pure chalk. The average age of the vines is maintained here is maintained above 25 years old.

Clos des Goisses is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay roughly half of which is fermented in oak barrels. Malolactic is systematically avoided to allow natural acidity to offset this terroir’s immensely powerful personality. Once again very low dosage (4 to 5 g/l) is used to allow the sheer vinosity of the vineyard to be expressed.

Time for an expansive tasting note. Clos des Goisses has a rich golden colour with a delicate mousse. The initial appealing aromas are of baked bread . With some air you begin to detect some honey and red fruits and later tertiary aromas of spiced wood, incense, smoke, honey and roasted coffee. The palate is remarkably intense (that word again) and very mineral with great length and breadth. 

The Clos des Goisses wines have great structure and thus the capacity to age. Vianney tells us to advise sommeliers to decant the wine to bring out the full aromatic potential. This is a wine and then some and not just a bubbly flibbertigibbet.