The Beauty of Natural Wines - From Sparkling Gamay to Ethereal Syrah

Wines don’t have to complicated to be delicious. In fact, the reverse is more often the case. The wines below are not straining at the leash - they are what they are…

2006 Petillant Naturel Boisson Rouge, Domaine de Montrieux
Ode to joie de vivre - purple stained mouth – check - beaded bubbles winking at the rim – check- seriously frivolous? – double check. The Pet Nat (Pétillant Naturel) is a savoury Gamay sur juice. It is made thusly: In the purest tradition of natural wines without sulphur the secret consists of harvesting the grapes ripe and in perfect health. The must begins its fermentation in vat and finishes in bottle. The richness of the sugars, the CO2 and the pressure created by the fermentation in bottle undermines the work of the yeasts. The fermentation then proceeds in a very slow manner until it finishes leaving the wine demi-sec.  So flip off the red crown cap, pop, a seductive whisper and foam into the glass. Amidst the oodles of strawbs and rasps there’s a smoky flavour and a neat whack of green pepper – drink it chilled, of course. This fizzy McLizzy is intended for the dizzy days of summer and Heredia counsels sternly against drinking it beyond September. As if you would…

2004 Originel Blanc, Julien Courtois
Originel is a reference to the taste and methods of production of traditional white wines in this region of the Loire and Cher. The producers of Menu Pineau, a typical white variety of this region, can be counted on the fingers of one hand and number Claude Courtois, Julien’s father, and the Puzelats. The variety is also locally known as Arbois and Verdet as the grapes on certain vines remain green even at full maturity. Judged as poor in quality and less modish than Sauvignon it is not planted any more, surviving purely thanks to certain local sweet wines where it forms a minor part of the blend. Here it responds well to the extremely low yields (20 hl/ha), a third of the average for this admittedly rare variety. The specific terroir – silica and flint over clay and flint – linked to the upbringing of the wine (twelve months in barriques) confers a great deal of complexity to the final wine. A silky ensemble, both racy and powerful with ripe fruits on top of secondary aromatics of menthol and gentiane, butter and churned cheese. Carafe this wine two hours before drinking. When you drink it the following thoughts will trickle into your mind. Is it oxidised and is the wine meant to taste like this? Stop analysing, start enjoying. I describe this as “like Chenin on acid” (man) because I pick up many of that grape’s signature aromas: wax, hay, marzipan and ripe cheese. The palate has a surprise bite of nervous acidity which brings all the aromas and flavours into clear focus. Someone at the France Under One Roof tasting observed that it reminded them an apple tarte tartin (an upside down one, surely?). Or to give it an alliterative skip how about “liquid tart tarte tatin”? Like all interesting wines this Originel changes in the glass. Bring on the runny Brie de Meaux!

2005 Coteaux du Vendomois, Domaine de Montrieux
This is old vines Pineau d’Aunis, a variety, occasionally known as Chenin Noir, which seems to be the original red grape of the Loire. After a natural semi-carbonic maceration the wine obtained is light and spicy with delicate tannins. Remarkable aromas catch your attention as soon as you bring your nose to the glass: A whiff of white pepper is quickly followed by a lovely minerality reminiscent of rainwater washing over limestone. Other aromas include red flowers, talcum powder and wild yeast which lends a hint of savagery to the fruit. Fresh strawberries follow, ripe and sweet, leading into a tart, bone-dry red-berry flavour that’s light-bodied but mouth-filling. Lemony acidity, subtle berries and white pepper linger in a long finish. It is be drunk fresh, its mineral, peppery side helps it to marry with grills, charcuterie, cheese and even fish.

2006 Clos du Tue-Boeuf La Guerrerie
This is a blend of 75% Cot and 25% Gamay and definitely earns its wacky wine moniker. Very earthy (polite term for barnyardy) with extremely bright fruit such as plum, spice, fresh herbs with ash and wood notes. Dusty, earthy, minerally, complex and savoury. Structured as much by acid as by tannins. Despite its brightness it is definitely on the dark berry fruit side of things. As with other “low sulphur” wines you can’t escape the ping of wild yeast which manifests itself here as warm, doughy smells. Oh, and let’s return to that feral smell – is it the high priest of high game, a venison benison, or is it a sack of happy polecats? The is very full-bodied due to the high content of Cot but the Gamay softens it and makes it accessible. Chill it for half an hour in the fridge, then carafe it. At this temperature the beast is tamed and it is more than delicious. Bear in mind this wine and its idiosyncratic nom-du-guerre when you next exclaim “I could murder a steak”. La Guerrerie smells and tastes as if it has slaughtered quite a lot of beef in its time and knows where the bodies are buried.

2005 Coteau de la Loir Les Mortiers, Domaine Le Briseau
Coteaux du Loir means Pineau d’Aunis, a grape as delicious as it is unknown. Their wines have a wonderful way of being carefree, yet beautifully made. A cornucopia of red fruit notes—wild strawberry, raspberry and loganberry with a hint of rose geranium, are graced with the characteristic spice of Pineau d’Aunis, revealed as a dusting of black pepper. Lovely just for sipping.  
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2007 VDP Ardèche Souteronne Romaneaux-Destezet.
2007 VDP Ardèche Syrah Romaneaux-Destezet
The Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet was created in 1993 by Hervé Souhaut. His holdings on the acidic granite soils of the northern Rhone and the southern Ardèche are a mixture of new and ancient vines—from 50 to100 years old. Hervé Souhaut’s vineyard is minuscule, only five hectares, and he employs only organic and biodynamic winemaking techniques.
The Syrah grapes for his VDP cuvée come from a tiny parcel of land along the slopes of the Doux River and the vines are on average 40 years old. At the end of September, the grapes are harvested and then undergo a very long maceration at a low temperature without desteming. The wine is then matured on the lees in second-hand oak casks for six months and then bottled without being filtered.  This is one of the most elegant and eloquent cool climate Syrahs I have ever tasted. The nose is, how shall we say, tender: violets to the fore, then black cherry, wet stone and vanilla bean all interplay nicely as they gradually unfurl from the glass. The palate demonstrates the coolness of the fruit; its sheer silkiness reminding one of fine primary Pinot. The dark cherry flavours are pronounced, the mere hint of parma violet and a whiff of tar. The tannins are totally dissolved into the fruit but the wine is structured by delightful acidity. Ideal with pigeon, guinea fowl, roast chicken or pork. The Souteronne is made from only old Gamay grapes which are from 60 to 80 years old vines. The winemaking involves a long maceration at low temperature, without destemming the grapes and the juice is matured on the fine lees, in second-hand oak casks. It is then bottled without filtration. The SO2 is less than 25mg/l when bottled. The depth of colour of this wine is sensational and the nose billows out of the glass to reveal fresh red and dark fruits. The palate is something else - this is a truly superb Gamay with a lovely mineral edge as if granite had melted seamlessly into a wine.