Tasting of white wines at Sun Inn, Dedham

2008 Madregale Bianco, Cantina Tollo
Almost full-flavoured with notes of buttered apricots and a hint of sweetness

2009 Cotes de Gascogne Cuvee Marine, Domaine de Menard
This Gascogne mouth-charmer skates across the tongue performing a series of triple toe loops (whatever they might be). The Gros Manseng brings dynamism to the blend with its crunchy acidity and the terroir of fossilised oyster shells is expressed in an exhilarating mother-of-pearl mineral purity.

2009 Picpoul de Pinet, Chateau de la Mirande
Pale green, subtle aromas of blanched almond, greengage, herbs and lemony brine. Medium-bodied, slightly resinous, very dry and savoury with moderate acidity. Famously matched with huitres de Bouzygues, I would also drink this happily with the classic fish soup with rouille.

2009 Sauvignon de Touraine, Domaine Guy Allion
That balance of elderflower with currant and a happy finish of passionfruit.

2009 Reserve de Gassac, VdP de l’Herault
Viognier with remarkably cool fruit and balancing acidity. White flowers, elegant, limey fruit

2009 Verdicchio di Matelica, Colle Stefano (organic)
Vital, vibrant, incisive – crisp minerality and great length, a lemon-and-lime-flecked Verdicchio that possesses that bit extra. Imagine a cross between zippy Albarino and stony Chablis. A must with oysters if you are that way inclined, but I can imagine guzzling this to distraction with langoustines and mayo or grilled prawns.

2008 Arcese, Vittoria Bera
Extraordinary wild wine, a churn of yeast, peach skin, almond blossom and smoky minerals. The palate is alive, prickly, cidery and tangy – drinking it is like attaching electrodes to your taste buds

2005 Malvasia Ageno, La Stoppa
This clamber in the cloudy amber is redolent of sweet pears with cloves, warm apricot skin, spiced oranges and musk. Sip dreamily with blue cheese.

2009 Txacoli di Guetaria, Bodegas Ameztoi
Foamy green-yellow El Txac displays a chalky dryness with a hint of petillance and encapsulates the very spirit of sea breeze. Green in every respect it can spot a boquerone at a hundred paces

2009 Albarino Abadia de San Campio, Rias Baixas
A riot of refreshing citrus flavours including lemon sherbet, pink grapefruit and mango.

2008 Framingham Classic Riesling, Marlborough
The usual mixed of apple compote streaked through with mandarin acidity with some secondary whiff of kerosene.

2008 Jurancon sec, Clos Lapeyre, Pyrenees (organic)
Exploding grapefruit balls and gum-tingling citrus allied to a rich texture makes this a wine designed to tackle oily fish such as salmon (smoked or fresh) and eel (ditto)

2008 Chablis, Domaine Gerard Tremblay
This is the best vintage of this I have tasted for several years. Very fine, pure, stony, mouth-watering, terrific length.

2008 Pouilly-Fuisse, Domaine Arnaud Combier
Initially austere this ultimately expressive unoaked Burgundy opens up to reveal lemon curd flavours shot through lovely linear acidity.

2009 Kerner, Cantina Valle Isarco
Intensely aromatic crowd-pleasing white with bold tropical fruit (pineapple, guava and ripe grapefruit). Dolomite is right.