Tasting in Dulwich - Wines of the Islands

WHITES

2007 Grecanico ‘Terre di Giumara’ by Caruso & Minini (Salemi, Sicily)
Interesting wine… concentrated ripe apple fruit, touch of spice, fresh. Long. Seriously good for the money.

2007 Vermentino di Gallura Superiore “Canayli” by CS Gallura (Gallura, Sardegna)
You may not have tried new vintage. As good as ever, lovely tarragon stylee herbiness on the nose, almond and crisp apple flavours on the palate.

2007 Rami Bianco by Cos (Ragusa, Sicily)
Ditto with new vintage? Very good, ultra fresh, very popular amongst Dulwich high society

2004 Leila Vendimia Tardiva by Alberto Loi (Ogliastra, Sardegna)
Described in the trade list but not quoted. 100% Late harvest Grenache red vinified as a white, according to Dario, he should know his Dad is from that village! Funky, aged almost truffly nose, touch of oxidation adding to the complexity of a pretty serious wine. Long finish with a degree of freshness. I really liked it, very Les Caves.

REDS

2006 Cerasuolo di Vittoria by Cos (Ragusa, Sicily)
Unsurprisingly excellent, a great red for elevenses. (nocturnal, matutinal or both elevenses? - Ed)

2003 Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva by Alberto Loi (Ogliastra, Sardegna)
Warm, baked nose, touch of funky reduction but not unpleasant. The oak is obvious but not over powering, interesting but maybe too expensive compared to southern rhone reds at same price?

1999 Ceuso Custera by Azienda Agricola Ceuso (Alcamo, Sicily) in Magnum
Blinding. Still full of life, good dark colour, fresh palate, tannins smoothing out. I think there is one magnum left but 60 btls of 1999.

2005 Faro by Palari (Messina, Sicily)
First time for me. Was expecting much and it really delivered. Complex nose of cherry, spice, undergrowth, coffee.. wine manages to combine power with a delicate touch. Drank rest from the bottle on the train home.

FORTIFIED

NV Marsala Superiore Riserva 10 y.o. by Marco de Bartoli (Marsala, Sicily) 50cl
Who needs Oloroso when you’ve got this beauty? Figgy, touch of toffee and almonds, fresh, complex. Had it with aged pecorino and a Gina Lollobrigida look-a-like…