Short and sweet tasting at Sartoria

LES CAVES DE PYRENE - TASTING AT SARTORIA

One person’s heresy is another’s orthodoxy

WHITES

2007 Zibibbo Integrale, Marco de Bartoli – Sicily (organic)

Zibibbo aka Muscat of Alexandria flourishes on the remote black volcanic plug of Pantelleria which is marooned between Sicily and the north coast of Africa. Battered by coruscating hot winds the island is home to low trained vines that yield the most fragrant, muscat-scented grapes. Integrale is a project pioneered by the de Bartoli family who have been experimenting with organic viticulture and low sulphur. (The other wines in this range include a Grecanico and a Grillo). Here the Zibibbo is harvested in early-to-mid August to capture the acidity in the grapes (the variety can be flabby and prone to maderisation without this vital component). The colour is clear lemon yellow, the nose is pretty - white flowers and orange blossom – but totally without confection. The wine slips delicately onto the tongue, teasing with citrus and mandarin and white grape essence, fills the mid palate, but, instead of dispersing as Mu-scatty wines are wont to do, it leaves a flickering smokiness to remember it by.

1997 Marche Bianco, San Lorenzo – Marche (biodynamic)

Most Verdicchio occupies a netherworld of neutrality inhabited by cheap Gavi, Soave and egregious Pinot Grigio. The subzone of Matelica, however, has a concentration of good small growers. In Castelli di Jesi there are also some highly regarded operators who try to lift the quality - one thinks of Bucci, for example. And then, perched the outermost twig of the biodynamic monkey puzzle tree, is Natalino Crognaletti who does nothing by halves – or any other fraction you care to name. His normal wines have extraordinary cut and thrust; he also makes special cuvees, vats of wine which brood quietly in the cellar acquiring intensity and concentration by remaining in contact with the wild yeasts. Bottled ten years after the vintage our youth is gawky and angular, shyly revealing linear minerality beneath a surface of pared apples and hazelnut shavings. There seems to be some oak here, old, seasoned wood. The austerity slow melts and secondary flavours emerge; texturally, the Verdicchio fleshes out, the leesiness becomes a recognizable spicy seasoning and, go with me on this, a suggestion of white truffle lurks in the background.

2006 Massa Vecchia Maremma Bianco IGT Toscana – Tuscany (biodynamic)

Massa Vecchia is instrumental in the Vini Veri, a group of growers linked by a common organic manifesto, and an urge to produce natural wines that reflect their respective regions, cultures and traditions. Natural viticulture in the vineyard is the watchword – no chemicals here – and minimal handling in the winery. The Bianco, as it is familiarly known, is a blend of Vermentino (around 60%) with some Malvasia, Ansonica and Trebbiano.  One cannot fail to remark the colour; it is honey-hued and holds the light, one swirl shows the glycerol. The grapes are pressed by foot twice a day for five days kept in contact with their skins for thirty day to discover more flavour, extract and structure. What a nose! Apple blossom mingled with orange rose and jasmine booms out of the glass, the wine enters the mouth and seems dry (from the extract) and sweet (from the aromas) at the same time. Dried fruits, apricots, peach-skin, wild herbs, then a waft of sweet chestnuts –no coincidence as the Massa Vecchia Bianco is matured in barrels made of chestnut.

2006 Jakot IGT Vino Bianco, Dario Princic – Friuli (biodynamic)

Some wines are beautiful enough that you can explore them aesthetically rather than reduce them to integers of flavour. (The Massa Vecchia above is a similar example). Princic believes in delivering what nature delivers him – here the beautifully ripe, healthy grapes from biodynamically tended vineyards come into the winery (traditional fermentation vessels here) and undergo fermentation with natural yeasts. Punch downs and skin maceration account for the delicate amber colour. The nose is understated – apricot kernels, butternut and warm spice (ginger). The wine is smooth and marrow-like in the mouth edged with wild herbs, beautifully fugitive. Jakot? Tocai – forgivable persiflage. With the Hungarians causing a Furmint about the trademarking of Tokaji this delicious natural wine is a cheeky reminder to those Magyar putzes that you can take away the name but you can’t take away the identity.

2007 Assyrtiko Cuvée 15, Hatzidakis, Santorini (organic)

Assertive Assytriko displaying vulcanicity of the Santorinian terrain. There’s a sentence I never thought I would write. Old vines (although calling them vines might be an exaggeration) meets new soil (calling it soil might be an exaggeration). Santorini is a small island covered in ash and pumice and some of the oldest vines in the world. These are delightfully trained in bird’s nest configurations greedily sucking the moisture that rolls in on the early morning mists. The yields are naturally minuscule: 10-12hl/ha is customary. Hatzidakis makes some of the purest expressions of the Assyrtiko grape. The nose is lemon zest grated over pumice (or perhaps with pumice!) then the wine hits you, at once powerful and phenomenally acidic, like biting alternately into a salt lemon and then a crunchy apple. It’s not mean, it is lifted with some balsamic notes and the wonderful minerality ties the wild parcel together. Epatant!

2000 Arbois Savagnin Blanc Ouillé, Domaine Houillon – Arbois (organic)

Savagnin sous lie from an organic grower. The wine acquires sherry-style nourishment from the yeasts and reveals all the concomitant nutty/dry spicy notes that you might expect. Here be aromas to get all seekers-after-and-snapper-uppers-of-considerable-trifles to whiffle keenly. Combine bruised apple and yellow plum, add melting butter, fenugreek, walnut, and finish with an electric charge of withering acidity. The intensity of the wine is balanced by its freshness. Poulet cooked with wine of similar complexion and served with as many morels as you can afford would be a condign match.

2006 Montlouis sec Volagré, Stephane Cossais – Loire (organic)

Context is everything. After a run of jiggery-pokery jejune vinjaunery the soothing honeyed tones of Chenin are balm to the palate. Cossais was influenced to experiment with Chenin when he tasted the wines of Foucault. “Je suis convaincu que ce cépage peut produire de grands vins blancs secs, capables de rivaliser en richesse et en complexité avec les grands Bourgognes. Mon souhait est de produire un grand vin blanc qui soit une reference”. The initial nose of white flowers gives way to fleshier parts of such fruits as quince, apple and pear with a suggestion of fig, honey and cinnamon. Chenin is vintage sensitive and the extra acidity of the 06 brings balance and confers length to the wine. The harmony between fruit and oak reminds one of Burgundy and this Montlouis has the structure and complexity of a great Beaune wine.