Selection of wines in prime form

2009 Mauvais Temp, Nico Carmarans - revisited
This bad weather is enjoying an Indian summer in my heart. Day three and I am totally smitten by this cherry-red number which is lithe and sharp and as pure as a nun who’s not into fun . It is a thin but wiry wine, the tartness carrying some lovely earthy fruit and wild spices on board. I would seriously have to consign a second bottle of this to gullet oblivion.

2009 Mas Foulaquier Tonillières, Pic Saint-Loup
Tonillières is named after the plot of land where the vines are planted. In former times ‘Les Tonillières’ denoted a forest where the trees were used for making barrels. The blend is Syrah-Carignan 50/50 with the latter from 50 year old vines. The terroir is composed of gravel (crushed limestone) for the Syrah and a slightly marlier limestone clay terroir for the Carignan. This bonny red is extremely aromatic with winning notes of cherries and raspberries, against background of violets, aromatic herbs and liquorice. As the wine develops it begins to display subtle notes of dried mint, leather and brandied cherries. The tannins clamour for something like pork chops with mashed cannellini beans and med veg.

2008 Cornas “Chaillot”, Domaine Franck Balthazar
45-90-year-old Syrah planted on the sunny slopes of the village’s granitic hillside amphitheatre. Franck works organically and by hand in the vineyard. Fermenting in cement vats he raises his wine completely in 600-litre old demi-muids for eighteen months and then bottles without fining or filtration and with very low sulphur. These are attractive, undeniably artisanally-made wines. Seductive perfume of red and dark berries, kirsch, lavender and violet, with a bright iron-mineral element. Spicy cherry and blackcurrant flavours combine richness and sinewy-sappy vivacity, picking up exotic floral pastilles on the finish. This has wonderful freshness and finishing cut.

2008 Cotes du Rhone, Sierra du Sud, Domaine Gramenon
I’m hankering something that’s on the one hand meaty, but also aromatic, savoury and medicinal, where glass segues into glass effortlessly. My go-to red wine on the Terroirs list, Sierra du Sud from Michelle Aubery, crosses all the t’s and dots the lower case j’s .  This Syrah has a very deep, dark inky- ruby colour. Bright aromatics majoring on violets with a stramash of red and dark fruit (cherry, blackberry) over meat and red liquorice. On the palate, completely seductive — deliciously approachable, beautiful ripe fruit, broad and expansive, smooth, great balance. Cherry, raspberry with pomegranate and plum, bacon and a little black olive, earth and a whiff of tar. Classic 08, light and bright, dancing with life.

2009 Macon-Aragonite, Clos des Vignes du Maynes
Aragonite was named after the Aragon region in Spain where it was discovered. It is an excellent stone to have around in times of stress as it is said to reduce anger and to enhance patience and acceptance under stressful conditions. It is also believed to raise energy levels and to help clear and focus the mind so that you can concentrate on the task in hand. Like drinking Julien Guillot’s Macons from Clos des Vignes du Maynes.

Aragonite is white Macon which undergoes two strict selections. Fermentation takes place in barrels with wild yeast. The wine is left on the lees and aged eleven months, without chapitalization or the addition of artificial yeast. Its striking appearance may be described as a lovely pale gold. Initially, the nose releases pure mineral notes of gunflint and steel and the palate is similar taut keeping the fruit in a leesy lock before unwinding the tension slowly to reveal notes of citrus, blanched almond and dry honey with the most delicate seasoning of oak spice.