Sachia di Perricone Caruso & Minini

2006 Sachia di Perricone, Caruso & Minino
Sachia di Perricone which sounds like it might be a faded porn star, or Neuropeptide Firming Moisturiser or a hairdresser who croons in Las Vegas night clubs and writes theme music for spaghetti westerns in his spare time, is, in fact, a lesser-cultivated red grape, also known as Pignatello, or Tuccarino, depending upon the area. Not very popular on an individual basis, this slightly bitter wine has strong tannins and is an important contributor to several DOC varietals from the western part of the Sicily, including Contea di Sclafani, and Marsala Rubino.

For me Sicilian reds, glory be to COS, tend to be jam yesterday, today and tomorrow. The fruit has the thickness as if the sun has slowly caramelised the grape skins. Many growers are not averse to the odd oak barrel to add some more charge to the guaranteed richness. When you taste most Sicilian reds your tongue has to scoop out layers of confection to discover the real deal; more often than not the wine is just a thick veneer of oenology.

The Sachia di Perricone from Caruso & Minini, however, does not see a stave of oak, being fermented in stainless steel. The nose is focused, not so much cherries as cherry-stones, and the slightly bitter chocolate attack in the front of the mouth releases a beautiful glide of acidity which carries the red pepper fruit finish. The tannins are present, but so is the fruit, and the acidity cleans all that. Although one might look at the abv and think it was full-bodied it definitely feels lighter and fresher. Served lightly chilled this could be a ringer for Barbera.