Reds from tasting at Sun Inn, Dedham
2008 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Frentano, Cantina Sociale Frentana 15.5 +
Typically saturnine Montepulciano with generous marmalised wild berry fruits. Properly rustic but not entirely without manners. We like.
2005 Moristel, Bodegas Pirineos 13
Not at its best with dried out fruit although the natural acidity of the Moristel grape gave it a little bite.
2008 Petite Syrah, Mas Montel, Pays du Gard 16
Fabulous, aromatic little wine, fragrant with violets and red flowers, gently dusted with white pepper. A pleasurable echo of Syrah, northern Rhone style.
2008 Merlot, Les Clairieres, Pays d’Oc 15
This mini-Merlot hails from the Minervois region and combines the reassuring plump softness of the grape with some aromatic garrigue notes (roasted rosemary) and a suggestion of pepper.
2009 Albizu Tempranillo, Northern Spain 14.5
A nice slice of blueberry pie buttressed by some savoury notes. Overdelivers on the price
2008 Rosso Piceno, Ciu Ciu, Marche (organic) 16+
Rasping red fruits stirred with a liquorice paintbrush and oodles of black pepper. A gorgeous little wine.
2009 Vin de Petanque Rouge Mas de Libian, Rhone (biodynamic) 15
I was less bouleversé about this petty Petanquer on this occasion. The first time I tried the wine it was a veritable summer puddigne (sic) of juice-oozing red fruits with the gentlest of herbal inflections, but here tannins had mysteriously appeared to clog the gums.
2007 Chateau Plaisance Classique, Cotes du Frontonnais (organic) 16
Inky blend of Negrette, Syrah and Cab Franc that shows classic flavours of morello cherry, liquorice, almond and red pepper seasoned with some ripe tannins.
2006 Vigna Grande, Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli 14.5
Nero di Troia with aromas of marzipan, mulberries and red plums. More astringent than normal.
2008 Freisa d’Asti, Giacomo Borgogno (organic) 15.5
Like so many Piedmontese wines this has a pleasing iron minerality and a restrained savoury quality.
2008 Lagrein, Weingut Niklas 15
Showing a bit of oak with cinnamon-inflected vanillin fruit and a note of bitter chocolate and roast plum
2009 Marcillac Lo Sang del Pais, Domaine du Cros 17
Lithe red fruit that keeps delivering the goods. Graphite and slate on the nose, delicate red fruits with fugitive notes of paprika and fennel, cool acidity with condensed iron filing minerality to round off. I can’t think when I wouldn’t drink this.
2008 Beaujolais, Chateau Cambon (organic) 17.5
Eighty year old vines, fantastic terroir and attention to detail in the vinification transforms this from Beau-lollipop wine to très Beau-jolly. In two words it’s fan-tastic. Limpid ruby-red colour, a puree of summer fruit flavours (redcurrants and cranberries to the fore) on the nose and in the mouth, followed by a beautiful, almost haunting earthiness reminiscent of soil and stones after a spring rain. Drink lightly chilled with salmon with new potatoes and samphire or crostinis with chicken liver pate.
2007 Faugeres tradition, Clos Fantine (biodynamic) 17
The mad professor will see you now. Muscular Mourvedre chewing and spitting tobacco, grilled beef and death in venison and a veritable wilderness of forest fruits in an aromatic soup of garrigue herbs.
2007 Barbera Le Verrane, Vittoria Bera (biodynamic) 16.5
If this wine was a railway it would a funkular (sic). Hint of reduction on the nose soon blows off to reveal chirpy (bitter) cherry Barbera fruit. The playful palate is reminiscent of refermenting red grape juice; this is wild wine, vivid, earthy, naked and pricklier than me without my usual double espresso in the morning.
2004 Chianti Classico, Fattoria Rodano 17
This captures the warmth and flavour of Sangiovese with its raw meat earthiness softened by age and an array of dried herb notes. The liquid equivalent of an aged slab of beef thrown on the grill.
2007 Rosso di Montalcino, AA Pian dell’Orino (biodynamic) 18
Wonderful baby Brunello that punches precisely above his weight. Everything is suggestive rather than overstated: spiced red cherries figs, tobacco, a hint of tar and a beautiful elegant peppery finish that lingers memorably.
2008 Lambrusco Rosso secco, Cantina Ceci 16
Purple frolicsome effusion of sweet, ripe fruits (strawberries, raspberries etc).