Recently tasted - much appreciated

2008 Irouléguy Blanc, Hegoxuri, Domaine Arretxea
Irouléguy Blanc as any fule knows is a blend of Gros & Petit Manseng.  The latter grape seems to have an affinity with oak which adds a opulent golden coating to its diamond heart. The flavours ricochet across every taste bud spanning the fruit spectrum from citrus to tropical via orchard. The aromas suggests pear or rather pearskin brushed with (leesy) spices, the attack in the mouth sees tongue-drilling citrus notes of waxy limes and lemon leading into pure crystallised grapefruit flavours backed up with the texture of sugared almonds. The explosive fruitiness releases into an exquisite assured minerality with crunchy flint and limestone which confers beautiful and lasting complexity to the wine.

1997 Madiran, Cuvée Charles de Batz, Domaine Berthoumieu
It’s been a long time since I tried, let alone drank, a Madiran. Didier Barrés top cuvée, made from old Tannat vines with a soupçon of Cabernet Franc, deserved a lengthy slumber in the Seven Sleeper’s Den and had escaped detection for a long time on the bottom rung of my wine rack clad in an inch thick duvet of dust. I blew off the cobwebs, pulled the cork and poured the wine into the carafe – the dark colour was reassuring. And so was the nose suggestive of both black and reds fruits, hints of undergrowth, herbs and dust. The wine was deliciously savoury, fresh and balanced revealing dried currants, Provençale herbs, seasoned old wood; the finish gentle, elegant and moreish.  I bought this wine for around £6.50; it is currently a magnificent drink, the rival to, or surpassing many a top claret from a similar vintage.

2009 Three Trees Le Cayrol Macabeu/Rolle
Rolle is also known as Vermentino and grows happily in Tuscany, Provence, Corsica and Sardinia.  The poor decomposed schist soils in the Roussillon are ideal allowing the vines to penetrate deeply which gives mineral character and personality to the wines and the Mediterranean garrigue provides its own subtle herbal accents. Le Cayrol ,produced from organically cultivated vines is a perfect example of this style: the nose is direct with intense, pervasive aromas redolent of rennet apple and almond blossom whilst the palate is tangy and flavoursome with lime peel notes and dried fruits and herbs.

2009 Three Trees Carignan/Grenache vieilles vignes
From 130 year old vines, Tom Lubbe’s joint venture in the Roussillon, has many of the virtuous characteristics of his Matassa reds. The low yielding fruit of the ancient vines confer staggering depth and power to the blend. The smells boom out of the glass; smoky reductive notes, violets, balsam, roast bay leaves, sweetcure bacon and cooked blackcurrants and blackberries, and, just as you think that the whole effect is de trop, the energising mixture of acidity and truly smoky minerality that simultaneously cuts and lengthens the flavours in the mouth.

2009 Three Trees Cabernet Franc
A delightful surprise. Carmine-red this shiny wine has lifted aromas of ripe blueberry and red cherries as well as varietal flavours of twig and pepper. The fruit carries on all the way supported by pleasing acidity.

2007 Clos du Gravillas Côté Obscur « The Dark Side », Cotes de Brian
In the 2007 John Bojanowski made an experimental cuvée, a more masculine (dark) wine to contrast with Nicole’s more “feminine” wines. This wine, presumably based on Carignan (to be confirmed) is dark and dense, with black forest fruits, interesting flavours of bitter chocolate and, somewhere in the background, notes of roast meat, pepper and herbs.