Mas Hauvette reviewed by Jamie Goode

Striking Provencal red: Domaine Hauvette

This is an interesting wine. It’s one that will divide people, depending on their tolerance for and acceptance of Brettanomyces (the ‘spoilage’ yeast that’s relatively common in red wines, and which contibutes an earthy, spicy, medicinal, animally quality). Now I’m not a Brett policeman. If I was a winemaker, I’d do all in my power to avoid it. But I recognize that sometimes it acts as a complexing factor in wine; there are some wines where its presence just seems to work. If you approach red wine from the perspective of looking for faults, then often you can’t see past the Brett in wines like this through to the actual qualities of the wine itself. That’s your loss.

Domaine Hauvette 2004 Les Baux de Provence, France
13.5% alcohol. Firm, savoury and spicy with olive, mineral and animal notes. Very savoury and spicy with hints of clove and pepper. There’s real complexity and depth here. Fresh, deep and intense with lovely focus and personality. Not an easy wine, but one that I like quite a bit. 92/100 (UK agent Les Caves de Pyrene)