Latest tasting notes
All these were tasted on the same day. For once I’ve decided to mark the wines (out of 10). My scale is thus
5 - Just about drinkable
6+ - Pleasant
6.5+ - Good
7+ - Showing well, distinctive wine
7.5+ - I like this!
8+ - Serious wine with structure and complexity
8.5+ - Lovely! I would invariably drink a whole bottle of this.
9 + - Inspiring wine revealing layer after layer. You would never get tired of this.
9.5+ - Heavenly choirs and hosannas
WHITES
2008 Madregale Bianco, Terre di Chieti 6
Watery colour, spritzy Chardonnay with barest citrus zest and apple skin. Quite refreshing
2008 Somada Verdejo, Bodegas Torres Manur 6
Aromatic herbaceous nose suggestive of green crunchy fruits. Gooseberry and nettle juice
2008 Grecanico, Terre di Guimara, Caruso & Minini 6
Straw yellow colour, muted nose of warm apricot skin. Medium weight and round in the mouth, slightly short finish.
2008 Picpoul de Pinet, Chateau de la Mirande 6.25
Green, herby, almost astringent with classic salt-and-pepper notes.
2008 Sauvignon de Touraine, Domaine Guy Allion 6
Classic Sauvignon de Touraine with ripe currant and berry fruits. Rounder acidity than one would find in a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume. Elderberry fool
2008 Pindar Rueda, Bodegas Torres Manur 6.5
Supercharged version of the Somada. Vinous nose and complex feel in the palate with good length
2008 Reserve de Gassac Blanc (second wine of Mas de Daumas Gassac) 6.5
Exotic nose verging on the Turkish delight cut by a nice slice of limey acidity on the palate
2008 Quincy Haute Victoire, Domaine Henri Bourgeois 7.5
Showing beautifully with restrained currant fruit flavours backed by energetic minerality
2007 Vouvray sec, Didier Champalou 7.5
Tender, mellow, honeyed Chenin – oh-so-approachable.
2008 Jurancon sec, Clos Lapeyre (organic) 7.75
After the initial characteristic whiff of almonds this segues effortlessly into racy yet ripe citrus fruits: pink grapefruit, mango sorbet, with a dry yet not astringent finish. Excellent.
2008 Kerner, Cantina Valle Isarco, Alto-Adige 7.75
What a mouthful. You have the aromas of a Riesling with some rich tropical fruits, some real body and then a lovely gush of pineapple acidity.
2008 Albarino Abadia de San Campio, Bodegas Terras Gauda 7.5
Reliable as always: fresh, fruity and ever so slightly salty.
2007 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore, San Lorenzo (biodynamic) 7?
Unusual. Intensely leesy to the extent of being really closed aromatically.
2008 Montlouis Minerale +, Domaine Frantz Saumon (organic) 8.25
This is what Chenin is about; that suggestion of plumptuous autumnal fruits held in check by mineral tension
2007 Sancerre, Domaine Gerard Fiou 8.5
I’ve always underrated the Fiou Sancerre, but now I can say (egregiously) Fiou – what a scorcher!! This demonstrates the particularity of terroir; it is like liquidised flint.
ROSE
2008 Marques de Alquezar Rose, Bodegas Pirineos 6.25
Does what it says on the label. Strawberries and liquorice.
REDS
2008 Albizu Tempranillo RT 28 6
Just fermented grape juice with a twist
2008 Bergerie de Bastide Rouge, Vin de Pays de Mediterranee 6
Soft, peppered strawberries
2008 Rioja Tinto, Vina Albergada 6.75
Bold, boisterous, bouncy Tempranillo, jovening into view
2007 Chateau Mourgues du Gres, Costieres de Nimes 8
Just brilliant – purple, bristling with brambly promise and the best smoky bacon Syrah fruit I’ve tasted for some time.
2008 Vignerons Estezargues Les Galets Rouge (organic) 7.25
Damp, autumnal, cloudy, raspberry jam. Like sunlight filtered through red mist.
2008 Marcillac Lo Sang del Pais, Domaine du Cros 7.75
Light, stalky, cherry-berry Marcillac with iron-and-slate cool acidity.
2007 Morellino di Scansano “Bellamarsilia”, Poggio Argentiera 7
Pumped up Sangiovese with deep colour and plum-cake fruit.
2008 Ventoux La Gerine, Domaine Ferme Saint Martin (organic) 7.75
I prefer the 08 to the 07. Almost limpid and very pure with a lightness that allows the garrigue terroir to express itself. Lovely.
2008 Vinho Verde Tinto, Afros (biodynamic) 7.75
Purple-black (or bible-black if you want to quote Dylan Thomas) suggestive of blackberry jam on the nose, but a far more challenging palate with a touch of astringency and nice acid finish.
2007 Fleurie Grille Midi, Chateau de Raousset 7.25
Flowery Fleurie – irises and roses – sharp red fruits in the mouth – redcurrants and cranberries.
2007 Barbera Le Verrane, Vittoria Bera (biodynamic) 8.25
This Barbera was out of the box today. Wild, quite gamey, yeasty, prickly, fermentation aromas, driven acidity. Enormous fun
2008 Minervois La Nine, Jean-Baptiste Senat (organic) 8.75
This is why we drink natural wine. Beautiful supple yet poised berry fruit infused with delightful roasted herb notes
2005 Bierzo Tinto, Bodegas Pittacum 7.75
Powerful Mencia with classic notes of coffee bean, black plums, herbs and pepper.
2004 Chianti Classico, Fattoria Rodano (organic) 8
Showing well today. Luscious plum, cinnamon, wild strawberries with a ruddy cherry sweetness mark this excellent Chianti Classico. The savoury fruit is well balanced and lifted by the piquant acidity. Elegant and lengthy in the finish. The wine is unfined and unfiltered – all the meat left on these bones!
2006 Rosso di Verzelle, AA Benanti 7.75
A blend of two Nerellos. With its ruby-red colour and delicate scent of red fruits and balsam this is an elegant, harmonious, remarkably persistent red wine.
2007 Bourgueil Trinch! Catherine & Pierre Breton (organic) 8.25
Expressive talky black cherry, currant and pomegranate inflected Cabernet Franc with earthy notes, nice herbaceousness and minerality bringing up the rear. It clinks jollily over all parts of the palate.
1998 Rioja Seleccion, Bodegas Urbina 7
Tawny-hued, smooth vanilla-port-and-plum brew.
2004 Madiran, Chateau Montus 6.75
Intense colour, big oaky nose, unresolved tannins
2005 Bandol, Domaine de la Tour du Bon (organic) 8
This blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsault has a wonderful nose of roasted cherries, sweet tobacco and herbs. The wine is rich yet balanced with round tannins
SWEET
2007 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Symphonie d’Automne, Domaine Berthoumieu 8.5
Honey drenched pears, marzipan, cinnamon bread – golden autumn. Bring on the foie gras and blue cheese in that order.
2006 Monbazillac Jour de Fruit, Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure 7.5
Nice fleshy apricots roasted with some fresh mint
2007 Muscat de St Jean de Minervois, Clos du Gravillas (organic) 8
Delightful! White flowers lead into crystallised grapefruit flavours with hints of tangerine and nectarine. A silky Mus-cat among the fortified pigeons.