It’s not just who you know - it’s what you drink

Been drinking the Vitovskas from Vodopivec, cognac-hued, artery-thrilling, bitter-fleshed with flavours of fine vermouth and warmed-orchard fruit skin. There are notes of caramel, citrus and pear – you think it is going to be sweet, but it is dry with a certain mineral tension. The wine gets better the longer it remains open - on the third day it was simply sublime.

Vin de Table Raisins Gaulois, Lapierre. You have to like a cheekily-monickered wine with a cartoon label of a geezer swallowing a bunch of grapes (evidently taking his wine in tablet form). Gummy Gamay, do not pass go, do not collect tannin, a redcurrant jam jamboree which just manages to steer clear of sweetness by virtue of a thwack of liquorice on the finish. You’re madder than Mad Jack McMad if you don’t serve this well chilled.

Malvasia Ageno – tasted with Christina Pickard over a lovely, lengthy lunch at Terroirs. I’m delighted to see this wine by the glass again. It still tastes youthful and energetic and the aromas alone bring a smile to your lips. Amber-hued with exotic notes of tangerine and something of peach warming on a windowsill in the early autumn, then a fine peppering of spices (cumin, mustard seed) and reviving flick of pickled ginger. Yum – what a great food wine as well. Possibly with tom yum.

Monte de Grazia – also by the glass at Terroirs. A dark red wine that manages to be full-bodied yet refreshing. The fruit is at the bitter plum end of the spectrum, there are subtle flavours of chocolate, dried herbs, hay and a nice whiff of graphite that gives mineral tow to the wine.

Tankadeddu Rosso, Panevino – broached a bottle next day at Terroirs. To use Christian’s favourite word: delish-oos… Mid-red with blue tints, soothing dark cherry-meets-plumskin fruit, sweet liquorice, cool earth and that glorious freshness that only a natural unextracted wine with natural acidity can give you. It makes you good about yourself and wine in general.

Emilio Hidalgo El Tresillo 1874 – the ultimate tongue lacquer with a deep tawny-brown colour. That’s only the beginning of the story. The nose transfixes– ripe apples in brandy leading into bruised walnuts, toffee brittle, sea salt and vanilla and then the aromas condense on the palate into fabulously rich and utterly intense mouth-coating flavours such as toasted nuts, butterscotch and spicy/leesy fruit carried on a wave of citrus acidity that washes the wine around and brings it back over and over to be remarked by every taste bud on your tongue.
A wine to share, to indulge in, to meditate to, to nibble cheese with. A wine for all seasons.

Posted by Doug on 25-Mar-2010. Permalink
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