Great Unexpecations - L’Inattendu delivers the goodies
2008 Minervois Blanc “L’Inattendu”, Clos du Gravillas
Expect the unexpected…
The key to Gravillas is the fantastic terroir in Saint-Jean de Minervois and every year that passes one sees a sympathetic progression in the winemaking. One of the essential elements of terroir is soil, and Nicole and John Bojanowski specifically wanted “blinding white rock like that found at Aupilhac and Vosne Romanée.” (Two places where Nicole worked previously).
The couple finally settled on the cute hamlet St. Jean de Minervois (population 44 and rising - or falling, as the case may be), in an area renowned for its delicious, grapey fortified Muscats. Gravillas means “gravel” in the local patois, and the white limestone gravel plateau that the Clos du Gravillas is located on has been used to grow grapes for hundreds if not thousands of years. The micro-climate assists the process of making great wines. Situated about 300 metres above sea level on slopes beneath the Montagne Noire the vineyards catch the cool evening breezes, allowing the grapes to retain more of their acidity. The high summer temperatures of this region during the day add the necessary alcohol to balance the acidity, creating the structural depth and maximum grape ripeness required to make excellent wine.
Nicole and John started in 1996 by planting Syrah, Cabernet and Mourvèdre, but in 1999, the same year that they started making wine, when they discovered 2.5 ha (a little over 6 acres) of Carignan planted between 1911 and 1970 and a small parcel of old Grenache Gris vines. These were to form the basis of Lo Vielh and L’Inattendu respectively. Since then they have acquired a veritable mixed portfolio of grapes, so to speak, no fewer than thirteen, so we’re looking forward to the Languedoc’s premium Chateaneuf-style field blend.
Comprising old-vine Grenache Gris and some Grenache Blanc (and perhaps some other varieties that have snuck in under my radar) and aptly named L’Inattendu, or the “Unexpected,” this dry white AOC Minervois has been called “a sort of rosé manqué” in that the vinification is similar to that of a rosé, but the result is a white wine. After a light pressing, the grape must is chilled and allowed to settle naturally. From there the juice goes into Allier oak barrels, where it stays for 12 months resting on the fine lees. Dry and rich, with a good balance of green apple and mineral flavours, and an elegant mouth feel, L’Inattendu is perfect for accompanying a fish dish or even a strong cheese (Comte is suggested). Early vintages revealed oxidation and distinct old woody quality that either charmed or puzzled, but the 2008 has raised the bar. There is lovely custard apple fruit allied to dried apricot, vanilla, garrigue notes of herbs and all sorts of ginger and white pepper on the finish. The warmth of the alcohol does not detract but rounds the mouth; it is a textural wine with the reverberating minerality of terroir from those hot stones.
