Chinon? Chi-oui!

Breton – could there be a better name for a superb exponent of the Cabernet Franc grape than this?

Catherine and Pierre Breton’s philosophy stems, in their own words, from a love of the land. The vineyards see ultra-intense organic care, no mean feat in this northerly clime; they avoid chemical fertilisers and weedkillers, restrict yields to something like 40-45 hl/ha (although some cuvées are below 35 hl/ha) and harvest by hand. Once the grapes have arrived at the cellars they are fermented according to terroir, with those from gravelly soils going into stainless steel, whereas those from clay-limestone vineyards are fermented in old oak vats. The Bretons use indigenous yeasts and their desire for “natural” winemaking comes through strong in their resistance to the use of sulphur, with typically just 10 mg/l added at bottling to many cuvées, although some are bottled without any sulphur at all.

Although Bourgueil is what the Bretons are best known for, their Chinon trips a trail of tantalising tastiness. The 2007 Chinon “Beaumont” is complex, weaving dark berries, wild herbs and minerality. Slightly hazy red in the glass, it initially gives up earthy, briary, brambly black currant, blackberry and blueberry flavours and aromas, with excellent structure and good heft and presence; the earth and underbrush linger longest on the finish. The rich fruit and deep earthy qualities provide an interesting, almost startling contrast, but as it opens dramatically in the glass, a good hit of leather, some cola – root beer and even a hint of mahogany emerge, adding interest and complexity. If two hours in a decanter makes this much difference, what will some years in the cellar do for it? From 50 year old vines grown on clay and limestone. It is richer on the fruit and less on the vegetal/ capsicum than many examples of Chinon, veering more to the fermenting wild yeast and secondary notes of humus (mushroom/truffle smells). As with the best examples of this under-rated variety it is as supple as those fine leather shoes that you have been wearing for three years and now feel as comfortable as slippers.

I would guzzle this with a hearty salade paysanne with chicken or duck livers, stuffed leg of lamb or roast goose. I’ve also heard that Chinon goes pretty well with sashimi, but that’s for me to know and you to find out.