Autumnal wines

And so we are in November (the month of the drowned dog –Ted Hughes – or Dead Ewes as we used to call him)

“The thinnest yellow light of November is more warming and exhilarating than any wine they tell of. 
The mite which November contributes becomes equal in value to the bounty of July.”
- Henry David Thoreau

Although I embrace seasonality as much as the next Joe or Joanne I’m not sure I entirely subscribe to the notion that certain wines are only for certain times. After all, last week I drank a Seb Riffault Sancerre. Having said that this Sauvignon is less sappy grass and flowering currants and more hay-bale and dried autumn fruit (think mulch- binding- in-the-marsh for those of you with exceptionally long radio memories). However, when the clocks go back, I normally graduate to an unvarying diet of inky-spicy reds with a Mediterranean inflection as if wistfully smelling and tasting the wine might allow me to hang on to the distant memory of heat and sunshine.

Pick of the Pics

First port of call in my wine glass recently has been Pic-Saint-Loup and the various cuvées of our recent acquisition, Mas Foulaquier. Pic Saint Loup is blessed with a glorious climate and excellent terroir, but, within the appellation the vines (particularly the Syrah) are relatively youthful, and, whilst it has established a reputation for polished (almost Bordelais-style) wines, the region has yet to develop a distinctive identity. The Foulaquier wines, biodynamically farmed and naturally made, combine elegance with a strong terroir signature.

With its old stone farmhouse built over centuries Mas Foulaquier is situated at the northern edge of the designated Pic Saint Loup ‘cru’. The farm overlooks a large plot of 8 hectares of sloping vines, similar to an enclosed Burgundy parcel. In addition to this lovely setting, the property is part of the exceptional Pic-St-Loup ‘terroir’: a pebbly landscape warmed by the southern sun and cooled by the climate of the lower reaches of the Cévennes

The limestone clay soil is pebbly and has both good filtering capacity due to the presence of stones and limestone fragments, and good water retention thanks to the red clay. The main plot slope faces south-southwest, which means the grapes ripen early. The wide divergence between daytime and night-time temperatures is accentuated by the altitude of the vines (200m) and ensures that the wines are extremely refreshing on the palate. In 2003, Blandine Chauchat joined the Foulaquier team bringing with her three hectares of old vines in the plot known as Les Tonillières in Claret.

The method of viticulture is driven by love for this rugged environment, and respect for this magical and unspoilt landscape.  The vines are therefore cultivated and treated with biodynamic preparations applied in accordance with the biodynamic sowing calendar. The grapes are harvested by hand, transferred into vats by gravity and fermented using only indigenous yeasts, without the addition of oenological products. No synthetic substances are used on the vines, nor any oenological products in the wine production. Weed control is mechanical or indeed manual.  Harvesting is manual in small 20KG boxes. Application for organic certification was made in 2005, whilst conversion to biodynamic production started in 2006. Their work respects the rhythms of the biodynamic planting calendar, both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Mas Foulaquier use preparations such as horn manure, composted cow manure, horn silica and several plant or flower decoctions. These preparations are dynamised and then sprayed on the vines, which strengthens soil life and boosts the vines’ resistance to disease.

Treatment of the harvest is manual without pumping. Neither sulphites nor yeast are added in order to allow the maximum expression of the ‘terroir’. Vinification takes place in small concrete vats (50-80hl.) coated with epoxy, which encourages proper maceration of the grapes.  Fermentation temperatures are unique to each vintage and vat according to the profile of the grapes. The aim is not to obtain maximum extraction, but rather elegance and fruit. Individual grape varieties may be vinified separately or together in variable proportions, in order to promote a certain complexity for future blends.

Vat fermentation can vary from two to six weeks, sometimes with several days’ maceration prior to fermentation, which allows the indigenous yeasts to begin working slowly and progressively.

Tonillières is named after the plot of land where the vines are planted. In former times ‘Les Tonillières’ denoted a forest where the trees were used for making barrels. The blend is Syrah-Carignan 50/50 with the latter from 50 year old vines. The terroir is composed of gravel (crushed limestone) for the Syrah and a slightly marlier limestone clay terroir for the Carignan. This bonny red (which is aged in cement) is extremely aromatic with a strangely salty note to the fore as well as the expected cherries and raspberries, against backdrop of violets, garrigue herbs, liquorice and leather.

Gran’ means old in Occitan and Gran’T is an homage to the old vines of the domaine. Comprising half each of Grenache and Carignan, it is aged for 24 months, half in barrel and demi-muids and half in concrete vats. More intense than the Tonillières this purple wine mingles blackberry preserve aromas with garrigue herbs, cinnamon and clove. The palate is brimful of red and black fruits, herbs, allspice and dark chocolate, with firm but fine tannins and ample acidity.

Petit Duc , named after a small owl that nests in the nooks of the farmhouse walls, is 100% Grenache from relatively young vines grown on south facing limestone slopes. The wine spends 18 months in barrel. A wine made exclusively from Grenache is very unusual in the Pic St Loup, but Foulaquier with its limestone scree terroir gives fine and delicate expression to this delicious grape variety.

Normal Servières resumed

The Domaine d’Aupilhac is in Montpeyroux, some 36 kms north-west of Montpellier. The cellar, created in 1989 in the family home, is right in the heart of the village. The Fadats have been growing grapes for over five generations.

A large part of the vines grow on south-west facing “terraces” on a site named “Aupilhac”. They’re mainly Mourvèdre and Carignan, but some Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault grow here too. Another part of the vineyard is the north-west facing “Les Cocalières” at an altitude of some 350m (1150ft) where Syrah predominates, though Mourvèdre and Grenache grow here too. The most northerly facing part is planted with the four white grapes recognized by the Coteaux du Languedoc: Roussanne, Marsanne, white Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino). Finally, the “Plôs de Baumes” at Aniane, consists of terraces made up of gravel washed down by the Hérault river; it was owned by Sylvain’s maternal grand-father, Marcel Baumes, and so is named in his memory.

The land is treated with great respect, the absolute priority being to maintain its natural balance. A regime of travail du sol is practised: the land ploughed regularly; this means the roots have to force their way deep into the cool sub-soil, thus protecting the vines from seasonal drought. No herbicides or pesticides are used.

Grapes are harvested by hand so that the skins are properly mature in order to extract the best aromas and colour, as well as ensuring silky tannins. A summer or green harvest is carried out on the younger vines to remove some bunches before they reach maturity; this stops the vines suffering from the heat and helps root development. It’s not necessary with the Carignan as the vines are so old that they limit their yield automatically. The local wild yeasts ensure the grapes ferment naturally. The wines mature in casks and barrels in the underground cellar. Sylvain has a gleaming chai with an array of stainless steel tanks but is sceptical about any interventions when the wine has entered the vat. The wines are unfiltered and unfined. The philosophy articulated by Sylvain echoes one we’ve heard from so many French vignerons: ”We believe that work in the vineyards has far more influence on a wine’s quality than what we do in the Cave”.

Sometimes known as Les Servières (after the wild lynx that used to roam in the local forests) the VdP is made from 100% Cinsault vines planted over a hundred years ago on south east facing hillside terraces where their roots plunge deep into the hard marl and clay-limestone soil. The wine is vinified on the lees for seven days and then is matured for nine months in small oak casks. The aromas remind one of ripe Pinot Noir – floral notes with a hint of confiture. The nose is dominated by sharp red fruits (redcurrants, cherries, bitter orange) and in the mouth the wine is fresh and aromatic with an attractive finish. This savoury wine has several gastronomic buddies: try it with grilled quails with cherries, or pot au feu, or chicken with tarragon or even lightly chilled.

From the cradle to the gravel.

John Bojanoswki from Clos du Gravillas (St Jean de Minervois) was in London last week and I met briefly with him to (re)taste the wines.  Sous Les Cailloux des Grillons, a wine that proves that it can be definitely cricket and crickety-boo (and refers to the ubiquitous crickets that lurk under the gravels and the night sky), is a delicious, savoury dark-and-red-fruit-filled blend of Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Grenache Noir and Terret Gris. This wine always puts a smile on my face and is friendly as a welcome from Nicole and John in the beautiful hamlet of St-Jean de Minervois.  Can be drunk by the glassful with a plate of charcuterie.

Rendez-Vous du Soleil was originally created to be a Carignan in a different style to Lo Vielh (qv) but has metamorphosed over the years into a Syrah, Cabernet and Carignan blend aged in barrel. In 2006 RDV also had a little bit of Grenache and Mourvèdre. The nose is pure cassis with the element of menthol and eucalyptus, the palate has notes of bitter fruits and pepper. This wine is perfect with lamb tagine or a roast vegetable couscous or stuffed peppers.

Lo Vielh, aka the old one, comes from a couple of hectares of Carignan; the oldest vines should be receiving a telegram from the Queen next year. Aged in 400 litre Allier oak barrels, the wine combines power and purity, the fruit is dark and velvety and is truly delicious. The 2007 vintage saw no sulphur at all (the fermentation lasted six months) and seems to have soaked up a huge amount of minerals. The fruit is blueberry-ripe with liquorice swirls and hint of tobacco. There are also discernible meaty undertones. What wouldn’t you eat with this? A steak cooked in the embers of a fire in a Languedocian restaurant, a shoulder of pork slow roasted in the oven, or breast of duck with griottine cherries – the choice is endless.

If you love Carignan, and I do, these wines will appeal enormously. Fermentations are natural; none of that earthy, herbal, leathery, grippiness is dissipated by carbonic maceration, for example (which one sees a lot in Corbières, for example). All the wines are packed with fruit leavened by gratifying acidity and seasoned with herbs and spice.

The Brawn Identity
So sue me. It is the worst kept secret ‘mongst the pearly kings and queens down their local rub-a-dub but Bethnal Green is about to get its own natural wine bar.

Spend your hard-earned abergavennies there and they’ll make you a mean Al Pacino. You could have a couple of Britneys care of the Camden Brewery. Of course, if you’re Lee Marvin Ed and his chefs will rustle you up some nice Becks and Posh.

So book a Betty Grable and come down our gaff for a spot of kidney punch or Yul Brynner or chill out simply with a glass or two of Quentin. It’s not all Mickey Rourke and reggae, you know.
Brawn, 49 Columbia Road, E2 7RG