Abouriou Elian da Ros

2007 Abouriou, Elian da Ros

It does what it says on a label which is so wide that the two ends virtually connect. Or does it? Who can claim to have tasted a 100% Abouriou? Put your hand down because, in the words of V. Meldrew, “I don’t believe it.”

Abouriou is a red wine grape grown primarily in South West France and, in small quantities, in California, where it rejoices under the name of “early Burgundy”, as in the early Burgundy catches the ampelographer.  It is a blending grape that along with Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Fer, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Gamay is used to make the French wine Côtes du Marmandais. Though it shares several synonyms with the Beaujolais grape Gamay, the two grapes do not share many characteristics. The grape is known for its low acidity and high tannin content. Having said that this example is made using carbonic maceration, which seems to accentuate the fruit, sharpen the acidity and round off the tannins.

Mid red colour with blueish tints. Hint of reduction on the nose, then aromas of violets and black cherry kicks in, whilst the palate is lean and crisp, moving towards juicy fruit. It’s more pepper than tannin, more savoury than sweet, and there’s a very agreeable prickle combined with earthy minerality that carries the wine easily over the tongue. It reminds me of the Pinot Noir from Puzelat, being tart, almost unassuming and refreshing, a veritable thirst-quenching Margarita of light red wines and a master of duck rillettes. Yes, it stalks - like a stalky thing.

No sulphites, according to the label, and 12%. What’s not to like?