A Rhone with a view - Mas de Libian

Cotes du Rhone Rouge, “Bout d’Zan”, Mas de Libian

Mas de Libian, a working farm (cereals, fruits and vines) since 1670, has remained in the hands of famille Thibon for its entire history. Hélène a remarkably energetic member of the family took over the viticulture and winemaking in 1995, and convinced her family to bottle their own wine rather than sell to local négociants. Her farming is entirely biodynamic since the 1960’s when her grandfather ran the farm, and the vines (averaging 40-45 years-old) are pruned for low yields and concentration. Nestor, a Comtois workhorse, joined the team for her ploughing prowess. The terraced vineyards, composed mostly of galets rouges, in St-Marcel d’Ardèche (the west bank of the Rhone) provide stunning views of Mont Ventoux, the Alpilles, and the Dentelles de Montmirail. Hélène is in her late 20s and in June this year she was selected by the French Wine Review as one of its Young Winemakers of the Year. She makes her wines in a traditional fashion following organic principles, and the vineyards have ‘pudding-stone’ soil like that found in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The stones reflect sunlight during the day and retain heat during the cold nights, thus making the vines work harder to extract water and minerals from the soil.

Bout d’Zan refers to bits of liquorice; it was also a nickname for Helene’s father in his youth alluding to his small stature and tanned skin. Now it refers to the liquorice flavour of the wine. From clay-limestone terroir, the gobelet vines yield only 40hl/ha. The wine is vinified without sulphur and 30% of it spends seven months in foudres.

A velvety Cotes du Rhone unfurling sweet aromas of violets and cool-rooted red flowers leading into a palate of black cherry, peppery spice, earthy notes, and did I mention the liquorice? We had it with lamb meatballs impregnated with fennel and herbes de provence and pasta.