A new Matassa white and Donati’s funday best
2009 Malvasia Rosa Frizzante, Camillo Donati
Pretty in pink indeed. If the mere colour of a wine could lift the most inspissated of glooms then this coral pink fizz will dissolve the black dog and bring a trilling song to the curliest of lips. Pearly pink with a note of Provençale oeil-de-perdrix (speak English, dammit!) it unveils a bouquet of roses - wild roses , of course – as well as other delicate spring blossoms and perhaps notes of sweet hay. The palate is crisp and clean, pitched between citrus (pink grapefruit, tangerine) and apple, with a delicate spiciness that adds an extra element. Being a Donati wine means that the deeper you delve into the bottle the cloudier the wine becomes, the vinous it is, and the more exotic the spice derived from the plentiful yeasty sediment.
2008 Domaine Matassa, Cuvee Alexandria, VdP des Cotes Catalanes
We are firm fans of Tom Lubbe’s wines from biodynamically-farmed vines and made with minimal interventions in the winery. Whilst the Grenache Gris dominated Matassa Blanc captures the heat of sun on bleached rock supplementing it with an array of smoky citrus fruits, the Alexandria exhibits the grapefruit and orange-blossom varietal character of the Muscat with interesting honeydew notes, bergamot oil and fugitive garrigue flavours.