France Under One Roof - March 2008

A burp in a jar is not a science project (The Simpson’s) and a trade tasting rarely gives the qui-vive of a particular country’s wine culture. I don’t know why I said that. Perhaps it is the lack of focus – as a visitor you have no idea what is going to be on display in terms of quality. Nevertheless, wine merchants are honour-bound to fly the flag each year and display wines that are interesting and original and demonstrate the strengths of the country or region in question…

Two Original Loire Varieties

Pineau is assuredly on the menu in the recondite forms of Menu Pineau (a white variety that has dropped through the oubliette of fashion) and the red Pineau d’Aunis, better known, but still liable to elicit a glassy-eyed what? from all but the most nerdish of wine afficionados. But though we at Les Caves are snappersup of unconsidered trifles, these wines have a more substantial interest as they are living, drinking proof of traditional Loire wines and therefore worth the detour.

Jura’s Prudence & Savoie-Faire

Perversely traditional - not just me - but the wines of the Jura (especially) and Savoie. 

Reality Bites

What is genius in wine? I think we can apply Schopenhauer’s observation: “Genius is its own reward. It serves no useful purpose; it bears no profit. It is as music, or art, or poetry or philosophy. To be useless and unprofitable is the patent of nobility.”

Sulphites - A Question of Degree?

The words “contains sulphites” appear on virtually all wine labels; as with any labelling it is meaningless because sulphites are, for wine, the best and the worse thing…

Z is for Zidarich

I was googling away as one does when I saw the tag “Parker reviews Nissan’s Terrano”, and I thought, in my Alan Partridge way, ah-ha, Uncle Bob has finally forsaken the fleshpots of Cali-Merlot in order to sample the more angular charms of Trieste’s finest. But I was mistaken… unless the Wine Advocate had abandoned the notion of reviewing wine in favour of giving them straightforward MOTs. This lively little mover (available only in red) has great straight-line speed across the palate, corners easily over the edges of your tongue and has a delightful framework of fruit on top of a firm chassis of minerality… Can go from 0-90 points in 6 seconds.